These may work for you ebay # 200321573405 On 4/28/09, tharrisn <[email protected]> wrote: > > > I found some caps for the anti-foam chambers and have ordered them. > Should know shortly if they're available. They weren't too expensive > and got a bunch of new o-rings for the oil pipes too. Only found one > of the eight a little marginal but the manual said replace 'em all. If > the place I ordered the caps can't get 'em I'll go the sealant route. > > Everything else looked good. No pitting, holes or scarring on the cam > lobes or bearing surfaces. Before putting the bearing caps back on I > smeared a very light coat of moly grease on the lobe and bearing > surfaces. > > While I have everything kinda apart (I didn't have to remove the > camshafts totally to get to the hydraulic adjusters) I figured I might > as well work over the carbs too. Can you point me to a good resource > for rebuilding the carbs? I think I read you don't recommend removing > the diaphragms and to use some appropriately sized piano wire to > insure the jets are clean. Along with the other parts I've ordered new > o-rings for the carb to cylinder junction. Sure would like to use > Viton o-rings as replacements but it's REALLY hard to find stuff like > this locally. > > On Apr 28, 12:05 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > > OK, not too bad on your part. I'm a little foggy with some of your > terminology but I think I get it. Yes, you can reseal the anti-foam chambers > with a good silicone seal. Allow 24 hours before starting the engine. I > always fill them with oil before re-assembly. With the silicone that may be > a problem. Oil and silicone don't get along before the silicone sets up. At > least put some in and clean the gasket surface with alcohol before the > silicone is applied. How did the cam lobes look ? No scaring ? holes, pits ? > > > > --- On Mon, 4/27/09, tharrisn <[email protected]> wrote: > > From: tharrisn <[email protected]> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: NOISE cont. > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> > > Date: Monday, April 27, 2009, 9:14 AM > > > > Dennis, > > > > Update to the '83 CB650SC Nighthawk hydraulic valve adjuster > > "tapping" > > saga. It's been awhile since my last post but it's taken awhile to > > collect this information...besides the weather has turned nice and I > > was riding the thing. <grin> > > > > I added Marvel Mystery Oil and then put several hundred miles on the > > bike results: > > > > - The intermittent clatter cleared up initially but now is pretty much > > all the time > > - With stethoscope isolated trouble to cylinder(s) 1 and/or 2 intake > > valves > > > > Since the clatter is all the time now that was a good sign for me > > (makes it easier to diagnose). Anyway, decided to pull the cam cover > > off and take a peek. Found a couple things. > > > > - oil hole caps on intake and exhaust 1 and 2 cylinders in poor shape > > - inspection and bleeding of all tappets revealed six of the sixteen > > somewhat marginal > > - visual inspection of everything else looks good > > > > The oil hole cap on the intake was even out of place a bit leaving the > > oil pocket open. (Of course the cap could have been dislodged when I > > took the cam cover off but none of the others were. Anyway, the rubber > > lips on both caps were cracked and broken in several spots. The intake > > again was the worst. > > > > Aha, says I. Since this oil pocket is supposed to keep the oil to the > > adjusters from filling with air bubbles maybe this oil pocket cap > > isn't doing its job? > > > > Replacing the hydraulic adjusters was going a little overboard since > > they really weren't too bad. I had some spares that tested a bit > > better so installed them just for grins. > > > > Ok, question...does anyone on this list have some spare oil pocket > > caps? Do I need to replace these bad caps or maybe a good silicone > > sealant will inject new life into the existing caps by sealing them on > > the oil pockets? What do you think Dennis? > > > > Thanks for all the help. This project is turning out to be kinda fun. > > > > On Mar 16, 12:58 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:> Good > thought, however you used Sea Foam. That should have cleaned that up > > > > if it works like they say it does. Do the MMO, I know what that does. At > least > > it will shift better. > > > > > --- On Mon, 3/16/09, tharrisn <[email protected]> wrote: > > > From: tharrisn <[email protected]> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: NOISE cont. > > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > > > <[email protected]>> Date: Monday, March 16, 2009, 12:26 > AM > > > > > What if there was a little varnish or other debris on the check valve > in > > > > the tappet. The varnish would allow the tappet to function "normally" > > when fed pressurized oil but would "leak down" fairly easy thus > > creating the clatter after a hot start. Just conjecture but interesting > to think > > about. On Mar 15, 9:41 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:> > If the adjuster had failed, no amount of oil pressure would make it SHUT > > > > UP. If yours quiets down some times, what do you think ? > > --- On > Sun,3/15/09, tharrisn <[email protected]> wrote: > From: tharrisn > > > > <[email protected]> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: NOISE cont. > > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > <[email protected]> > Date: Sunday, March 15, 2009, > > 9:08 PM > > Ok, it's get the oil pressure checked first. > > > > It's gonna take me a bit to get back to this project. I'm helping > > > escort a group of teenagers on a back packing trip. Should be fun...I > > think > > I'm the token old> guy? <grin> > > On Mar 14, 11:33 pm, Dennis Hammerl > > <[email protected]> wrote:> A great question. Before we get into that, > > > > I would call your attention to > > the location of the oil pressure > > sending unit and the fact that the upper end > (cams, etc) are the last > to > > get oil. That's why I'm so aghast at gonzo > RPM starts. With that in > > mind, it's not too difficult to see that the light > can go off (oil > > pressure good) long before the critical upper end parts get > lube. Many > > years ago we would start a cold CB450 in the garage with no radio > on > and > > the door closed. At exactly 58 seconds after start-up, it would suddenly > > > > get very quiet. It took that long to oil the upper end ! Lets not > speculate on> any damage without a real pressure check first. I know that > going anywhere > > > > near > a dealer is like being condemned to hell, but suck it up and take > this > > variable > out of the equation. In the end you may have to remove the > head > > cover just to > examine> the problem. Not yet. > > > --- On Sat, > 3/14/09, tharrisn > > <[email protected]> wrote: > > From: tharrisn > > > > <[email protected]> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: NOISE cont.> > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > > > > > <[email protected]>> Date: Saturday, March 14, 2009, > > 11:02 PM > > > Would low oil pressure cause other noticeable problems > > besides the > > tappet noise? > > > I know "idiot" > > lights on cars are notoriously bad at indicating > > problems but what > > about our bikes? I ask because the light comes on as > > it should when > > turning the ignition on but promptly goes off when the > > engine > starts.> > > On Mar 14, 2:06 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> > > > > wrote:> > > This is starting to sound like > > > > an oil pressure leakback, caused by #1 thin oil (from heat) or that #2 > > > > the Sea Foam has loosened up some grunge that is unable to escape from > that part of the system since a I described, is not open-ended. Now on the > #1 cause, I'd get a dealer to check its real oil pressure when hot. There is > a screw in gauge that dealers have to do this. > > > > Shouldn't cost much to check. Low oil pressure can be many things. Don't > panic. Since you didn't use anything on the second oil change we can't > accuse anything of diluting the oil. > > > > > > --- On Sat, 3/14/09, > tharrisn > > <[email protected]> wrote: > > > From: tharrisn > > > > <[email protected]> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: NOISE > > cont. > > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > > > > <[email protected]>> Date: Saturday, March 14, > > > 2009, 11:17 AM > > > > Doesn't sound like all the tappets are > > noisy but a few and not > all the > > > time. They are the loudest > > after the bike is> hot and sets for ten minutes > or so. > > I can > almost > > > > guarantee when I start it back up and take off the noise will > be > > > > very pronounced until it eventually quiets back down after a mile or two > >> (quicker if I rev it a bit). They'll stay quiet until it idles for > > > > > some time > > or I shut if off and start it again while still hot. > > I've changed > oil and > > filter twice now in 800 miles. The > > first change I added SeaFoam (1/3 can). > > Second change straight engine > > oil (Shell 5W-40 Rotella-T). I'll make > the > > next change using > > Marvel Mystery Oil. I've never used MM Oil before. > How > > much > > can I safely put in the engine of this 83 650, or just follow > > directions on> > can? Will it hurt anything if I continue to "soup up" the > > > engine oil > > at each change with MM Oil no matter how long it takes > > > > to stop the tappet > noise? > > If I change oil at say 300 to 500 > > miles the next several> times do > > I need to change the oil > filter> too or can I skip to every > > > > > other change while > > > > working on this problem? I'm going to give the > engine > > every > > opportunity to purge it's little gremlins before taking more > drastic> > > measures like pulling the cylinder head cover. But, I'm collecting > > > some > > spare parts should I need to dig deeper. You have helped a > > > > bunch! Thank > you. > > On Mar 13, 10:42 pm, Dennis Hammerl< > [email protected]> wrote: > > I > > guess I stirred > > > > something up. I did check parts sites and found no new > parts > > > > available. (that puzzles me, I never used any) They don't wear out and > > > you > > can purge them. There is a tool for purging the air that you > > don't > need, > > just makes it easier. Let's start here; do > > they (one or more) tap all > the > > time, some of the time, once in > > awhile ? For the always and often cases, > you may > > have to remove > > and purge. For the once in awhile, CHANGE OIL... then > change it > > > > again. Get the nasties out. The> 3K RPM deal is to force out the> > > > particle. In practice, > > > > consider the adjuster like an oil pressure gauge. > > > > > > > It's a dead-end that reacts to pressure. They do leak some out of the > > > bore > > and back into circulation. I change my oil every thousand miles. > > Comes out > like > > it went in. Seems a shame but the alternative > > would be more so. My one > 700s > > started to tap on a trip and > > without any option, I continued to ride it > home. It > > stopped some > > miles later and I changed the oil next day. > Never > heard from >> > again. Any top-end work and I remove them and place right-side up till I > > > > reinstall. Somebody once tipped over a few and I had to purge them > > > > before > > replacing in motor. If the problem persists and needs > > attention, the > offending > > ones are easy to identify. To save time, > > use a screwdriver as a > stethoscope and > > get a good idea of > > it's general location. There should be no clearance > at > > any > > valve. Since > > > > > they retain oil, the ones that are really hard to push > down are > > > > good. > > > > ... > > > > read more ยป > > >
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