If you've ever bled the brakes on a car you should be able to do the clutch.
The reservoir is right above the clutch lever and holds hydraulic fluid for
the master cylinder. When you squeeze the lever a piston forces fluid down
the line to the slave cylinder on the side of the transmission which pushes
a rod to disengage your clutch. If this isn't working your bike wouldn't
shift very easily. I'm not sure which clutch spring it was recommended that
you change. There are small springs in both the master and the slave
cylinder. There's also the pressure plate for the clutches inside the
transmission.

-Kyle


On Wed, Apr 15, 2009 at 8:33 AM, Ze'ev <[email protected]> wrote:

>
> Thanks Kyle.  I'll have to see if it feels different.  I don't think
> it does.  I haven't done either (and I don't know how, but I'll look
> into it -- is it a do-it-yourself job for a beginner with a manual?).
> I should mention that when the bike was safetied a year ago, it was
> recommended that I change the clutch spring.  This was never done and
> I rode it for a season with no problems.
>
> On Apr 15, 9:21 am, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Does the clutch feel any different? Have you checked the reservoir level
> or
> > bled the clutch line recently?
> >
> > -Kyle
> >
> > On Wed, Apr 15, 2009 at 8:06 AM, Ze'ev <[email protected]>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Hello there, I was wondering if anyone's encountered this before:
> >
> > > The bike is a Honda nighthawk 1984 650, shaft drive.
> > > The problem is: once the bike is running and I put it in first,
> > > (A) it starts moving even when the clutch is depressed
> > > (B) It stuck in first -- cannot change gears, including going back to
> > > Neutral.
> > > Once I shut it off, I can change gears.
> > > This started happening suddenly -- no issues before.
> > > Thanks for your help and suggestions!
> >
>

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