Ahh, moving them away from the heat didn't really occur to me. It's been so long since I've been in a vapor locked car that I didn't think about it. I rode it through all kinds of heat this summer with no carb issues. Only managed to get caught in gridlock once, and it was actually the clutch that was starting to act up on me before I got it back out in the wind again.
-Kyle -Sent from Houston, TX, United States On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 1:36 AM, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > OK, now I see what you're going on about. I believe they are being used to > isolate the carbs from heat. Maybe where you live, not here, not ever. > That's all it could be. Takes too long to reach operating temp in cold > climes. Really makes the job of air box tubes a chore. So little space to > start with. When you remove those, (carbs) take the time to move the airbox > back to make things go better. If you don't have to mess with those > insulators, leave 'em in. I leave my spigots on the head when I take carbs > out. > > --- On *Thu, 9/10/09, Kyle Munz <[email protected]>* wrote: > > > From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: K&N filter saga continues. > To: [email protected] > Date: Thursday, September 10, 2009, 1:54 AM > > > Are we talking about the same thing? What I'm calling spacers might be > called intake manifold gaskets. They go between the intake and the head. > Having three basically moves the whole carbset almost .5" back from the > engine. I can't figure out what the point of that would be. Seems to me that > three gaskets just multiplies your chances of a leak by three. I'll drop an > outside float bowl to check the jets soon and if it turns out I need to > remove the carbs I'll remove the extra gaskets as well. Older bikes are so > exciting, you never know what surprises the PO left for you. > > -Kyle > -Sent from Houston, TX, United States > > On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 12:32 AM, Dennis Hammerl > <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]> > > wrote: > >> Without being there, the "spacers" are actually spring seats. Maybe >> somebody added to increase tension ? Take' em out, use one. If it needs >> additional tension, I stretch the spring. The correct place for them is >> between the spring and carb body not under the screw head. Start at two >> turns from lightly seated. The absence of limiters is a sure sign of >> hanky-panky to go along with the forks. Better for you. >> The bore size for the #35 slow jet is .005" I'll get the 115 miked >> tomorrow. The cup size reduction was counter-productive. Look around for a >> coffee machine cup. The one I have was to be inserted into a holder. It has >> a smaller diameter bottom (top as installed) but higher than... It doesn't >> matter, as long as it works out. >> >> >> --- On *Thu, 9/10/09, Kyle Munz >> <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]> >> >* wrote: >> >> >> From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]> >> > >> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: K&N filter saga continues. >> To: >> [email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]> >> Date: Thursday, September 10, 2009, 1:18 AM >> >> >> Yeah I know. I get the same sheep when ppl need computer help. They try >> everything except what I suggest. I'm just like everyone else though, >> looking for a shortcut. I was definitely eyeballing the ones on bottom. >> They're supposed to have the teardrop shaped grey plastic limiter caps, but >> those are missing. >> Any idea why they would have three spacers on them? >> >> -Kyle >> >> >> On Wed, Sep 9, 2009 at 11:46 PM, Dennis Hammerl >> <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]> >> > wrote: >> >>> Idle mix screws set to around two turns out from lightly seated. It >>> isn't going to help much if at all. They only have a real effect with the >>> throttle closed. IE: idle or slowing. I'll mike my wires and pass along the >>> sizes. >>> Why is it that most folks want to try something else first ? Did I waste >>> my life doing this ? Do you think I'm f%king with you ? I'm passing along >>> just the same things I'd be doing if the job was mine. I'm getting a tad >>> tired of this. It's not just you, almost everybody. >>> >>> --- On *Wed, 9/9/09, Kyle Munz >>> <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]> >>> >* wrote: >>> >>> >>> From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]> >>> > >>> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: K&N filter saga continues. >>> To: >>> [email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]> >>> Date: Wednesday, September 9, 2009, 9:20 PM >>> >>> >>> I finally got back to my yogurt cup tuning. I cut it down so that the >>> large diameter of the yogurt cup was the same as the inside small diameter >>> of the K&N cone. Now it sits on the bottom of the cone snug against the >>> pleats and is about 3" below the opening of the cone. This really didn't >>> make much difference though with the lean popping behavior. Slightly worse >>> than it was with the full size cup, not quite as bad as just the straight >>> K&N. So, since I want the K&N to work, I guess this leaves the carbs. Before >>> checking the jet size, I'm wondering if it would be worth it to try quarter >>> or eighth turn adjustments to these? The PO said they were rebuilt carbs so >>> it's possible those aren't set right, especially since the limiter caps are >>> all removed. My buddy has the tiny carburetor drill bits for checking the >>> jet sizes. I'll see if I can't borrow those off of him. >>> >>> Pictures of the trimmed cup and mp3 of both the OEM airfilter and the K&N >>> are on my blog. http://munz.kicks-ass.net/nighthawk/?p=295 >>> >>> -Kyle >>> -Sent from Houston, TX, United States >>> >>> >>> On Fri, Sep 4, 2009 at 10:49 PM, Dennis Hammerl >>> <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]> >>> > wrote: >>> >>>> That's the largest cup I've seen so far in one of those. !! Mine is >>>> about 2/3 that size and truncated. Now, you have to admit it works. The >>>> remaining issue is still to be addressed. Get a small (stubby) >>>> Phillips screw driver and remove one of the outer float bowls (carbs on >>>> bike) and check the main jet size. Actually check the slow jet size too. >>>> The >>>> OEM is #115 and #35. What you are describing is happening during >>>> "transition" (from all jets as a collective to main) As the revs climb >>>> above >>>> the trouble zone and the air speed (that's what this is all about, >>>> remember?) increases enough to atomize a lot of fuel, it goes good. I'm not >>>> there and have no crystal ball, this is my best guess at this point. You >>>> have increased air speed a ton and it does run better. Now you have to dig >>>> in. Even if the jet sizes are correct, there is no reason to believe it. >>>> That's where sized wires come in. I can supply you with the the wire sizes >>>> (and wires) to check that they have / have not been reamed to some new >>>> size. >>>> your bike has been altered which you cannot deny. Does it go deeper ? Let's >>>> see. When you get it right, that gonzo cup might have to be replaced with a >>>> smaller one. From what you say, you've made great progress with your >>>> problem. The last little bit always takes the most work. You're gonna' get >>>> it right. Hang in there. >>>> >>>> Just a note, yogurt cups are for California models. 49 state models use >>>> soft drink cups. >>>> >>>> --- On *Fri, 9/4/09, Kyle Munz >>>> <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]> >>>> >* wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]> >>>> > >>>> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] K&N filter saga continues. >>>> To: >>>> [email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]> >>>> Date: Friday, September 4, 2009, 10:41 PM >>>> >>>> >>>> Ok, Per Dennis' advice I reduced the interior volume of my cone-shaped >>>> K&N filter, and that definitely improved things but it's not quite perfect. >>>> I couldn't locate a dixie cup (when you *need* one they're nowhere >>>> around) so I went with an empty yogurt cup. Sorry, I don't know what >>>> flavor. >>>> Anyhow, this took the bike from popping constantly and barely climbing >>>> above >>>> 4grand to a bike that will actually start, idle, and rev. >>>> It still is off just a tad. The exhaust sounds a bit more "hollow" that >>>> it did before. Can't describe it better than that. >>>> I've recorded an audio file of the exhaust popping and posted it on my >>>> blog at http://munz.kicks-ass.net/nighthawk/?p=280 for anyone >>>> interested. It starts at 2K, moves up the 3K, then to 4K where it starts to >>>> pop a bit, and then starts to pop alot as I move up to 5K. After 5K it >>>> takes >>>> off like a champ and definitely has more power in the higher revs than it >>>> did before, but I want the lower RPM rideability I hear so much about ;) >>>> The >>>> end of the audio file is a quick rev up to 8K with no popping, it's just >>>> trying to sustain it between 4 and 5 that is kind of rough. >>>> >>>> So, do I keep tweaking my yogurt cups or is it time to monkey with the >>>> jets? I really don't want to monkey with the jets :) >>>> Also, all test rides were done with the lid and snorkel bolted in place. >>>> >>>> [image: K&N filter with yogurt cup >>>> modifier]<http://munz.kicks-ass.net/nighthawk/?attachment_id=281> >>>> >>>> >>>> -Kyle >>>> -Sent from Houston, TX, United States >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
