thank you for the info..i did what u told me to do and i think i got the reason for it doing what its doing.although i have zero knowledge about motorcycle mechanices everything i m doing is on trial and error,so i don t know if i m doing it right but all the readings u gave me weren t even close to what i got so that means there is a problem somewere.i took apart my alternator and i don t know if this is normal or not...i think not..there is oil leaking from my alternator from one of the bolts.when i opened it where the stator is it was dry.just at the bottom of the alternator was a little damp with oil.the ragulater seems finished there is calcium build up on the wires and on the regulater so that i have to change.and the stator i have someone who will fix for me for 20 dollars.now the only thing that bothers me is the oil leak can you help me.
On Sep 7, 8:31 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > This a subject that comes up quite often. Before there is any blanket > condemnation of early 650 electrical systems, any evaluation of a charging > problem begins with re-charging the battery to 13.8 volts and have it load > bank tested. For me, I don't use voltage readings, I prefer to use an > ammeter. A shunt works well but not having one, connect an ammeter (range of > at least 10~20A) to the battery negative post and the cable end. Hold the > cable end firmly to the battery negative post while starting and after it > starts and runs, separate the cable from the battery. at this point all > current will be flowing through the ammeter. If you use an ammeter that shows > current flow in both directions, at idle it will show a discharge and start > to lessen as you approach 2500 RPM. Above 2500 it should show a positive > charge rate. The longer it runs in a charging condition, the charge rate will > lessen. That is because the battery voltage is returning to full charge > after being somewhat drained from the high current draw of starting. At some > point it will stabilize at a 2~3A rate. > This is the first test of a charging system. Should it not perform in the > manner described, further examination of components will be in order. > In short (no pun intended); recharge the battery to full and have it load > tested, use an ammeter to check performance of system. > # never try to start the engine with the current flow through the > ammeter...poof ! > The results of this procedure will indicate what further testing is needed. > IMHO, the 650 may have a marginal charging system but it can be managed. > > --- On Mon, 9/7/09, joey1980 <[email protected]> wrote: > > From: joey1980 <[email protected]> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] battery problems bike wont start after long ride > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> > Date: Monday, September 7, 2009, 10:58 AM > > i have a 1983 nighthawk cb650 ,i have a new battery.but everytime i > charge it go for a long ride come back turn off the bike try to turn > it back on...battery is dead.all trough the ride i was able to to > start it 3-4 times.i checked it with a metter by putting the red on > the positive on the battery and black on the negative side of the > battery and it reads 11.80...but when i rev it it goes up to > 12.3..after the ride it read 9.8 and dropping.whta could it be do.do i > have to chang my alternator. --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
