Throw it in Stan's Christmas cake recipe - he'll never notice.

On Dec 30, 2009, at 2:59 PM, Kim Paddock wrote:

> Hit it with a good penetrating oil and let it sit....that usually  
> works for me.
>
> From: Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]>
> To: [email protected]
> Sent: Tue, December 29, 2009 11:23:57 PM
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>
> I don't have much of an answer for you. Don't know how much I've  
> put on 'em but it's been enough that two guys had to hold the bike  
> from spinning on the center stand. That's with my 2' bar and 3'  
> tube combo. 5' X 150lb weakling = ?  I wonder if it's cross  
> threaded or just corroded on. If you got one off, you see that they  
> are fine thread and have an O ring. i've heated some stuff like  
> that (not a fork though) and then applied an ice cube to the cap to  
> shrink it quickly. Could spray it with something cold too. Pulling  
> on the socket while heating might do it. The socket would act as a  
> heat sink and keep the cap cooler. If you can get another cap, you  
> might have to crack off the top rim with a small chisel. (leave the  
> hex) The rim is where the pressure is. Once off, unless cross  
> threaded, it should back out easy. Good luck.
>
> --- On Wed, 12/30/09, oldschoolgwin <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> From: oldschoolgwin <[email protected]>
> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
> To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]>
> Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 12:42 AM
>
> Thanks Dennnis.  I managed to get a socket that grips it much better.
> In this case 27mm is the same as 1 1/16" (well actually 1 1/16' is
> just slightly smaller to my advantage).
>
> This socket grips it much better but i've put at least 100 lbs on it
> and it won't budge.  The scary part is what will give first as i push
> harder - knowing the bolt head is not 100% to begin with - yikes.
>
> I tried a propane torch and heated teh fork tube up to maybe 200-250F
> and applied the 100 ft-lbs - no luck.  Not sure if this would work
> since the alumninum bolt expands faster than the steel fork tube.
>
> Is there any other method too try before just increasing torque?   How
> about an Impact gun - not sure if this would be effectitve on an
> aluminum hex head???
>
> On Dec 27, 8:17 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Well, first off it isn't 1 1/16". It's metric. The proper size  
> 1/2" drive 6 point socket should do. I prefer the "flank-drive"  
> variety because they apply contact in the middle of the flats. My  
> personal choice is the Kowa brand (Japan). They have a rather  
> pronounced "flank-drive" I leave the tubes in the fork and only  
> loosen the top clamp. A 24" bar and a 3' tube gets most anything.  
> Sometimes you need someone to hold the bike. check with any Jap  
> bike dealers to see if any of their techs use Kowa sockets and try  
> to borrow one. The chisel is the last resort cause I have to buy  
> the replacement.
> >
> > --- On Sun, 12/27/09, oldschoolgwin <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > From: oldschoolgwin <[email protected]>
> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
> > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!"  
> <[email protected]>
> > Date: Sunday, December 27, 2009, 9:36 PM
> >
> > Hi All.
> >
> > Well I'm installing new fork seals on my 83 650.
> >
> > The left fork tube cap is stuck and it appears it was a victim of  
> some
> > previous shade tree mechanic with a 1 size fits all wrench - rounded
> > corners on that cap and not much left.
> >
> > Any ideas on how to ge this off.  A six point 1 1/16' socket doesn't
> > want to grip it enough to break it loose.
> >
> > I guess if worse comes to worse i could drill two 1/4" through holes
> > and make a pinned spanner to remove it - but that is just more  
> effort
> > than i like.
> >
> > Anyone know any tricks? Chisel and hammer at the edge? Options are
> > looking so good!
> >
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