The great difficulty with which fasteners come off on Asian machinery is 
sometehing to be expected, even on smaller bolts.  IMO, it has to do with the 
fact that Asian threads are still fine on the larger bolts, whereas Germans - 
Europeans in general - use a coarser thread on the larger ones and it is not as 
difficult to remove them.
The only time I experienced difficulty in removing a bolt, was the crankshaft 
pully bold on a diesel Audi, because it was treated with the toughest 
threadlocking compound, that has to be heated to remove the bolt.  I used a 1" 
breaker bar with a jackstand at the extension going in to the grille to meet 
the bolt, and a cheater pipe about 8' long, upon which I applied my 175 pounds, 
jumping down on it to finally break it loose.
Of course, I had also to have someone inside holding down the brakes with the 
car in reverse.  I was most happy that it was a standard and not an automatic, 
or I would have had to try holding down the engine with something blocking the 
flywheel underneath the car...
If I would have had a factory manual instead of a Hanes or Clymer, I would have 
been instructed to heat the bolt up thoroughly before attempting to remove 
it. --- 
I found out ex post facto that it had the "Locktite" or German equivalent 
(usually better).
So, could I charge for all that extra time it took to remove the bolt?  Of 
course not.  I could only chalk it up under learning experience.
Something as large as the fork cap?  Use the proper size tool in the first 
place or suffer the consequences, like you have experienced in this case.  I 
really loathe working on something after someone else has messed it up; don't 
you?

 

--- On Wed, 12/30/09, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:


From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
To: [email protected]
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 2:47 PM


That and it's less likely a bike under 10yrs old has been sitting behind a barn 
for 15yrs. My vote goes with letting some penetrating oil soak into it for a 
day or so.

-Kyle 
-Sent from Beaumont, TX, United States 


On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 2:44 PM, oldschoolgwin <[email protected]> wrote:

The first one i got off and it took a lot of torque to move it
(guessing 80 ft-lbs) but it moved eventually.  This one wasn't
corroded or cross threaded - just seamed more like it was way over
torqued to begin with.

 I'll try heat with ice cube technology on the cap first.  If that
doesn't work then i'll max torque it with a 3ft extension bar and hope
for the best.

Do people have a habit of overtorquing these like to 125 ft-lbs for
some reason?  Now i can see why dealerships don't like to work on MC's
older than 10ys -the lurking unknown?

On Dec 30, 11:59 am, Kim Paddock <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hit it with a good penetrating oil and let it sit....that usually works for 
> me.
>
> ________________________________
> From: Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]>

> To: [email protected]
> Sent: Tue, December 29, 2009 11:23:57 PM
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>
> I don't have much of an answer for you. Don't know how much I've put on 'em 
> but it's been enough that two guys had to hold the bike from spinning on the 
> center stand. That's with my 2' bar and 3' tube combo. 5' X 150lb weakling = 
> ?  I wonder if it's cross threaded or just corroded on. If you got one off, 
> you see that they are fine thread and have an O ring. i've heated some stuff 
> like that (not a fork though) and then applied an ice cube to the cap to 
> shrink it quickly. Could spray it with something cold too. Pulling on the 
> socket while heating might do it. The socket would act as a heat sink and 
> keep the cap cooler. If you can get another cap, you might have to crack off 
> the top rim with a small chisel. (leave the hex) The rim is where the 
> pressure is. Once off, unless cross threaded, it should back out easy. Good 
> luck.
>



> --- On Wed, 12/30/09, oldschoolgwin <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> >From: oldschoolgwin <[email protected]>
> >Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
> >To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]>
> >Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 12:42 AM
>
> >Thanks Dennnis.  I managed to get a socket that grips it much better.
> >In this case 27mm is the same as 1 1/16" (well actually 1 1/16' is
> >just slightly smaller to my advantage).
>
> >This socket grips it much better but i've put at least 100 lbs on it
> >and it won't budge.  The scary part is what will give first as i push
> >harder - knowing the bolt head is not 100% to begin with - yikes.
>
> >I tried a propane torch and heated teh fork tube up to maybe 200-250F
> >and applied the 100 ft-lbs - no
> > luck.  Not sure if this would work
> >since the alumninum bolt expands faster than the steel fork tube.
>
> >Is there any other method too try before just increasing torque?   How
> >about an Impact gun - not sure if this would be effectitve on an
> >aluminum hex head???
>
> >On Dec 27, 8:17 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> Well, first off it isn't 1 1/16". It's metric. The proper size 1/2" drive 
> >> 6 point socket should do. I prefer the "flank-drive" variety because they 
> >> apply contact in the middle of the flats. My personal choice is the Kowa 
> >> brand (Japan). They have a rather pronounced "flank-drive" I leave the 
> >> tubes in the fork and only loosen the top clamp. A 24" bar and a 3' tube 
> >> gets most anything. Sometimes you need someone to hold the bike. check 
> >> with any Jap bike dealers to see if any of their techs use Kowa
> > sockets and try to borrow one. The chisel is the last resort cause I have 
> > to buy the replacement.
>
> >> --- On Sun, 12/27/09, oldschoolgwin <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >> From: oldschoolgwin <[email protected]>
> >> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
> >> To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]>
> >> Date: Sunday, December 27, 2009, 9:36 PM
>
> >> Hi All.
>
> >> Well I'm installing new fork seals on my 83 650.
>
> >> The left fork tube cap is stuck and it appears it was a victim of some
> >> previous shade tree
> > mechanic with a 1 size fits all wrench - rounded
> >> corners on that cap and not much left.
>
> >> Any ideas on how to ge this off.  A six point 1 1/16' socket doesn't
> >> want to grip it enough to break it loose.
>
> >> I guess if worse comes to worse i could drill two 1/4" through holes
> >> and make a pinned spanner to remove it - but that is just more effort
> >> than i like.
>
> >> Anyone know any tricks? Chisel and hammer at the edge? Options are
> >> looking so good!
>
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