oops.. forgot to post to whole group. short story: 6000 miles, WPS battery (cheap), dealer forgot to have battery ready when they said they would and probably rushed to get it ready after that.
what does g/ng mean? On Jan 24, 11:04 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > How interesting. You have a problem and have started to look in the wrong > place first. Your description is very good. Why ? Because it points in a > totally different direction than you are going in. Let's gather some > information first. How many miles are on this ? What brand is the battery and > if you bought it from a source that did the proper pre-delivery service > before selling it to you. You say it goes flat quite quickly. That is the > sign of a poor battery. Was it load tested after being charged ? It matters > not that it is new, a battery must be properly serviced before being put into > use. An improperly serviced battery will NEVER be at 100% no matter what. A > low quality battery that is not treated properly before being placed in > service will cause starting AND charging problems. So much for part one. > #2 The question about mileage is important because the starter may be going > bad. You've done a ton of work on this and probably started it quite often > without riding it enough at any given time to recharge the battery. The > starter may be drawing a lot more than it should as well. > SO... Take the battery to a dealer ( I know and I don't want to hear it. DEAL > WITH IT) have it charged and tested on a load bank. G / NG ? > Once you resolve that issue, get the bike started and check the > alternator output. A battery that has less than 10.5 volts will not have a > functional charging system. The charging system can be checked only with a > good battery. All of your resistance checks indicate a good system. A check > of the charging rate is called for. Do that with an ammeter inline with the > battery. Use an ammeter with a +- 10A range. Disconnect the ground cable from > the battery and hook up the ammeter inline with the battery. DO NOT START the > bike this way. Hold the ground cable terminal against the battery post to > start it. (trying to start it through the ammeter will cause the ammeter to > fail) Once running, separate the terminal from the post and read the charge > rate. Those bikes begin to charge at a point above 2000rpm. The charge rate > will be high for a time and then fall off as the battery is recharged. If the > bike has no / low charge rate, there are further checks. > That's enough for now. > I'm not there, but I see a brand X battery that's been poorly serviced, > abused by repeated starts and than ridden a short distance with a > non-functional charging system.. then failed completely. If I hadn't seen > this a thousand times already, I wouldn't be quite so sure. I am. > Get PO'd at me and scream. I'm used to it. > > ________________________________ > From: bull city <[email protected]> > To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <[email protected]> > Sent: Sun, January 24, 2010 4:26:58 PM > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] '83 550 SC Electrical Issues > > I had my $600 garage find running with a new battery and rebuilding > the clutch and front brake. After a couple of weekends of working on > it, and only taking ti out for about a 5 minutes ride the bike went > dead as I pulled into my driveway. I tried to restart but the battery > just didn’t have any power. > > I let it sit for about two months as Christmas passed. I’m figuring > the problem is somewhere in the rectifier/ alternator. I went and got > the battery recharged at autozone, tried to restart the bike but the > battery just didn’t have the juice and went dead within 5 minutes (if > that) of trying to start it. > > So I have not been able to do any running tests on the bike. But here > is what I have done: > > Checked the rectifier using a multimeter to check resistance between > each of the 3 yellow leads to the green ground. It registered zero > ohms on each with one polarity, when the polarity was reversed there > was no current on any. So I am assuming that means it good. I found > this method on-line athttp://www.dansmc.com/electricaltesting.htm. I > have the manual but have no idea what the tests are that the manual > calls for (Sanwa SP-10D, etc...) > > Checked the alternator by seeing if there is connectivity on the > winding. All yellow leads coming from the alternator show > connectivity. The manual says to check this on the “alternator side”of > the connector. I am assuming this means the winding is good. > > The next step in the manual says to check resistance levels on the > “harness” side, which I am assuming is the leads to the rectifier? I > am NOT getting connectivity between the yellow leads going into the > rectifier. Is this what I am supposed to be doing? > > Next is says to check between each yellow lead and the green ground, > which I have and it shows no connectivity, which it supposedly should > not. > > I don’t have a running bike at this point to I cant check any running > tests. > > So, what should I check at this point? > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
