I just followed these tests ( http://cbrworld.net/forums/thread/140473.aspx
) and everything is ok.

I'll search and see how to check the brushes.

On Mar 7, 12:40 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> It could be the starter. Check the brushes..
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: bull city <[email protected]>
> To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sun, Mar 7, 2010 11:29 am
> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: '83 550 SC Electrical Issues
>
> So the dealership replaced my battery and I just checked it. When the
> ike has the ignition on but I haven't cranked it it's reading 12-13
> olts. As soon as  start it and disconnect the negative lead the
> oltage drops to 2-3 volts. It's a brand new battery that is cranking
> p perfectly. It's cranking and riding great... but I am sticking very
> lose to home until I have ok'd the charging system.
> So this test is not good, what do you reccomend looking at next?
>
> hat shou
> n Jan 25, 1:34 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
>  good / no good
>
>  ________________________________
>  From: bull city <[email protected]>
>  To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <[email protected]>
>  Sent: Mon, January 25, 2010 4:25:59 PM
>  Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: '83 550 SC Electrical Issues
>
>  oops.. forgot to post to whole group.
>
>  short story: 6000 miles, WPS battery (cheap), dealer forgot to have
>  battery ready when they said they would and probably rushed to get it
>  ready after that.
>
>  what does g/ng mean?
>
>  On Jan 24, 11:04 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>  > How interesting. You have a problem and have started to look in the wrong
> lace first. Your description is very good. Why ? Because it points in a 
> totally
> ifferent direction than you are going in. Let's gather some information first.
> ow many miles are on this ? What brand is the battery and if you bought it 
> from
>  source that did the proper pre-delivery service before selling it to you. You
> ay it goes flat quite quickly. That is the sign of a poor battery. Was it load
> ested after being charged ? It matters not that it is new, a battery must be
> roperly serviced before being put into use. An improperly serviced battery 
> will
> EVER be at 100% no matter what. A low quality battery that is not treated
> roperly before being placed in service will cause starting AND charging
> roblems. So much for part one.
>  > #2 The question about mileage is important because the starter may be going
> ad. You've done a ton of work on this and probably started it quite often
> ithout riding it enough at any given time to recharge the battery. The starter
> ay be drawing a lot more than it should as well.
>  > SO... Take the battery to a dealer ( I know and I don't want to hear it.
> EAL WITH IT) have it charged and tested on a load bank. G / NG ?
>  >         Once you resolve that issue, get the bike started and check the
> lternator output. A battery that has less than 10.5 volts will not have a
> unctional charging system. The charging system can be checked only with a good
> attery. All of your resistance checks indicate a good system. A check of the
> harging rate is called for. Do that with an ammeter inline with the battery.
> se an ammeter with a +- 10A range. Disconnect the ground cable from the 
> battery
> nd hook up the ammeter inline with the battery. DO NOT START the bike this 
> way.
> old the ground cable terminal against the battery post to start it. (trying to
> tart it through the ammeter will cause the ammeter to fail) Once running,
> eparate the terminal from the post and read the charge rate. Those bikes begin
> o charge at a point above 2000rpm. The charge rate will be high for a time and
> hen fall off as the battery is recharged. If the bike has no / low charge 
> rate,
> here are further checks.
>  >  That's enough for now.
>  > I'm not there, but I see a brand X battery that's been poorly serviced,
> bused by repeated starts and than ridden a short distance with a 
> non-functional
> harging system.. then failed completely. If I hadn't seen this a thousand 
> times
> lready, I wouldn't be quite so sure. I am.
>  > Get PO'd at me and scream. I'm used to it.
>
>  > ________________________________
>  > From: bull city <[email protected]>
>  > To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <[email protected]>
>  > Sent: Sun, January 24, 2010 4:26:58 PM
>  > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] '83 550 SC Electrical Issues
>
>  > I had my $600 garage find running with a new battery and rebuilding
>  > the clutch and front brake.  After a couple of weekends of working on
>  > it, and only taking ti out for about a 5 minutes ride the bike went
>  > dead as I pulled into my driveway.  I tried to restart but the battery
>  > just didn’t have any power.
>
>  > I let it sit for about two months as Christmas passed. I’m figuring
>  > the problem is somewhere in the rectifier/ alternator. I went and got
>  > the battery recharged at autozone, tried to restart the bike but the
>  > battery just didn’t have the juice and went dead within 5 minutes (if
>  > that) of trying to start it.
>
>  > So I have not been able to do any running tests on the bike. But here
>  > is what I have done:
>
>  > Checked the rectifier using a multimeter to check resistance between
>  > each of the 3 yellow leads to the green ground. It registered zero
>  > ohms on each with one polarity, when the polarity was reversed there
>  > was no current on any. So I am assuming that means it good. I found
>  > this method on-line athttp://www.dansmc.com/electricaltesting.htm. I
>  > have the manual but have no idea what the tests are that the manual
>  > calls for (Sanwa SP-10D, etc...)
>
>  > Checked the alternator by seeing if there is connectivity on the
>  > winding. All yellow leads coming from the alternator show
>  > connectivity. The manual says to check this on the “alternator side”of
>  > the connector. I am assuming this means the winding is good.
>
>  > The next step in the manual says to check resistance levels on the
>  > “harness” side, which I am assuming is the leads to the rectifier?  I
>  > am NOT getting connectivity between the yellow leads going into the
>  > rectifier. Is this what I am supposed to be doing?
>
>  > Next is says to check between each yellow lead and the green ground,
>  > which I have and it shows no connectivity, which it supposedly should
>  > not.
>
>  > I don’t have a running bike at this point to I cant check any running
>  > tests.
>
>  > So, what should I check at this point?
>
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