Check the black/white wires, on the stator side of the connector. It's the
excitation winding which creates the magnetic field in the stator / rotor /
stator system (unusual magnetic path). It should be less than 5 ohms.
Otherwise, fried. Very very classical failure on 550/650 nighhawks, due to
poor (not to say f....) engineering from Hitachi. If fried, have it rewired
: just the white/black winding, the three phased (yellow wires) windings
are usually OK. I suggest you go one point of gauge towards thiner wire,
and/or ask the professionnal to take industrial grade wire, able to
whitstand a higher temperature inside the winding without getting fried.
Going one point of gauge to thinner wire will let the limit RPM for
charging go a little higher : you will need to avoid staying in low rpm for
long drives if you want your battery to get charged. It's better than no
charge at all ! BTW, check the regulator after rewiring the stator. On my
bike, it had been fried too, in short circuit, so no more regulation at
all. If fried (or even if not, to be foreseeing), change the f...
Shindengen OEM model for a moden Electrex or Electrosport model.
BTW, all NH lovers, have a nice 2010 year.
From: bull city <[email protected]>
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <[email protected]>
Sent: Sun, January 24, 2010 4:26:58 PM
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] '83 550 SC Electrical Issues
I had my $600 garage find running with a new battery and rebuilding
the clutch and front brake. After a couple of weekends of working on
it, and only taking ti out for about a 5 minutes ride the bike went
dead as I pulled into my driveway. I tried to restart but the battery
just didn't have any power.
I let it sit for about two months as Christmas passed. I'm figuring
the problem is somewhere in the rectifier/ alternator. I went and got
the battery recharged at autozone, tried to restart the bike but the
battery just didn't have the juice and went dead within 5 minutes (if
that) of trying to start it.
So I have not been able to do any running tests on the bike. But here
is what I have done:
Checked the rectifier using a multimeter to check resistance between
each of the 3 yellow leads to the green ground. It registered zero
ohms on each with one polarity, when the polarity was reversed there
was no current on any. So I am assuming that means it good. I found
this method on-line at
<http://www.dansmc.com/electricaltesting.htm>http://www.dansmc.com/electricaltesting.htm
. I
have the manual but have no idea what the tests are that the manual
calls for (Sanwa SP-10D, etc...)
Checked the alternator by seeing if there is connectivity on the
winding. All yellow leads coming from the alternator show
connectivity. The manual says to check this on the "alternator side"of
the connector. I am assuming this means the winding is good.
The next step in the manual says to check resistance levels on the
"harness" side, which I am assuming is the leads to the rectifier? I
am NOT getting connectivity between the yellow leads going into the
rectifier. Is this what I am supposed to be doing?
Next is says to check between each yellow lead and the green ground,
which I have and it shows no connectivity, which it supposedly should
not.
I don't have a running bike at this point to I cant check any running
tests.
So, what should I check at this point?
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