Just guessing (obviously) I'd say it's the top end not the bottom. A rod
knock would only make half as many noises as a top end issue.
Dave

On 3 August 2012 16:24, Ross M. Jamison <[email protected]>wrote:

> Sounds like rod knock.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Ross M. Jamison
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 3, 2012, at 1:13 PM, Matthew Webb <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Here'a a much belated update:
>
> I started removing and dissasembling my engine (photos 
> here<https://plus.google.com/photos/118089145265544102347/albums/5757262905493724129?authkey=CPXK5L2a99-HngE>)
> which turned out to be a pretty big challenge without having much
> experience.  But it was tons of fun and I learned a lot while struggling
> and cursing in my blazing hot shed.  While I was doing this a used engine
> with 22k miles popped up on eBay and just so happened to be located in my
> city so I scooped it up.
>
> By some miracle, I manage to succesfully install the new engine, put all
> the pieces together, and get the bike started!  I think I remember hearing
> a slight noise from the engine but I was probably too estatic notice.  I
> took the bike for a short test ride and at some point during the ride I
> noticed a tapping noise coming from the engine.  So I'm not exactly sure
> when the noise started.  Its possible the engine had been sitting for a
> while before I bought it.  During the ride the bike seemed to perform 100%
> fine, aside from the noise.  Back at home I took a video to capture the
> noise.
>
> I used a tube to listen to the engine and I think the noise is coming from
> the back of the lower crankcase.  From the reading I've down it sounds like
> that type of noise means a valve needs to be adjusted?  But the Clymer
> reads the valves adjust themselves automatically?  So maybe a piston ring
> is off or something?
>
> Can anyone watch the video and help ID the noise?  At this point I think
> my best bet is to take it to a shop and have pros look at it.  Even if I
> have to shell out an arm and a leg I just want to be on the road again.
>
> http://youtu.be/PurYX89KWzc
>
> Thanks!
>
> - Matt
>
>
>
> On Friday, April 20, 2012 10:44:30 PM UTC-4, Matthew Webb wrote:
>
>> Hi my name is Matt.  I'm new to the group and I recently got my first
>> bike, a 1992 CB750 with 3,800 miles for $1,800.  It was always garage kept
>> and in very good condition.
>>
>> I had had the bike for only about 2 months but had put almost 2,000 miles
>> on it already.  At the time I was getting home from work in the dark and
>> the cold and kept putting off my first bike maintenance until a weekend
>> when I could do some work in the daylight.  I made a big rookie mistake and
>> ran my bike dry and the engine locked up when I stopped at a traffic
>> light.  The low oil indicator light had turned on that morning but I was
>> hurrying to a meeting and thought I would be able to make it before things
>> got serious.
>>
>> I got my bike back to my house, and a few weeks later poured some oil
>> over the top of the engine, manually turned the engine, and then was able
>> to get it to start with no problem.  However, the engine didn't seem to
>> respond right.  So I looked into the top more and found some pretty serious
>> scouring on the exhaust camshafts, exhaust camshaft holders, and
>> crankcase.  It also looks like some of the rubber stuff on the defoaming
>> chamber covers melted, but I'm not sure.  The rest of the top end looked
>> completely fine, even the intake camshaft.  See 
>> pictures<https://plus.google.com/photos/118089145265544102347/albums/5733673720992831665?authkey=CKH1v53yteGPnAE>for
>>  details but be warned, they are depressing.
>>
>> I am worried that pieces of metal may have gotten into the bottom of the
>> engine and wrecked more havoc.  I'm also wondering if there may be more
>> damage than I've seen from when my engine locked up.  Does anyone know what
>> damage is typical when you run your engine dry? Is it likely the entire
>> engine will need to be replaced?
>>
>> I have searched past messages but have not found much.  Possibly because
>> I don't know what is best to search for.  I've done a lot of other reading
>> so far and have some ideas but wanted to run it by the group first.
>>
>> To me it looks like I have a few options:
>>
>> 1) Sell the bike as is on CL for parts to someone who knows what they are
>> doing
>> 2) Purchase replacement parts for the damaged components and replace
>> them.  With a quick search I have found these on ebay: cylinder 
>> head<http://www.ebay.com/itm/CYLINDER-HEAD-CB750-NIGHTHAWK-91-93-92-1991-1992-1993-VALVE-TOP-END-ENGINE-MOTOR-/140691166315?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20c1d8d46b>
>> , another cylinder 
>> head<http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB750-SC-Nighthawk-Good-Used-Original-Engine-Cylinder-Head-1992-BDK-/150711279313?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2317179ed1>,
>> camshafts.<http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB750-SC-Nighthawk-Good-Used-Original-Engine-Cam-Camshaft-Pair-1992-BDK-/400261036787?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5d316abaf3>
>> I don't have much experience working with engines but I do have a Clymer
>> manual.  The camshafts and holders look easy to replace but the body of the
>> crankcase is also damaged where the camshafts sit.  Would it be possible to
>> have a shop re-machine it so that I wouldn't need to replace it?
>> 3) Take it to a shop, have them replace the parts and open the bottom of
>> the engine to look for more damage.
>> 4) Purchase another CB750 and use my first one as a parts bike.  Also
>> part out my first one on ebay since the rest of the bike is in excellent
>> condition.
>>
>> Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.
>>
>> - Matt
>>
>>
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