I'd say rod knock or exhaust leak.

Feel around really close to all the exhaust ports and see if you can feel a 
pulse of air coming out.

 -James O

On Aug 4, 2012, at 21:36 PM, Greg Holuban wrote:

> Did you put in new exhaust seals? Make sure they are tight.
> 
> Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 17:02:22 -0300
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: rookie looking for suggestions
> From: [email protected]
> To: [email protected]
> 
> Just guessing (obviously) I'd say it's the top end not the bottom. A rod 
> knock would only make half as many noises as a top end issue.
> Dave
> 
> On 3 August 2012 16:24, Ross M. Jamison <[email protected]> wrote:
> Sounds like rod knock.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Ross M. Jamison
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Aug 3, 2012, at 1:13 PM, Matthew Webb <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> Here'a a much belated update:
>  
> I started removing and dissasembling my engine (photos here) which turned out 
> to be a pretty big challenge without having much experience.  But it was tons 
> of fun and I learned a lot while struggling and cursing in my blazing hot 
> shed.  While I was doing this a used engine with 22k miles popped up on eBay 
> and just so happened to be located in my city so I scooped it up.  
>  
> By some miracle, I manage to succesfully install the new engine, put all the 
> pieces together, and get the bike started!  I think I remember hearing a 
> slight noise from the engine but I was probably too estatic notice.  I took 
> the bike for a short test ride and at some point during the ride I noticed a 
> tapping noise coming from the engine.  So I'm not exactly sure when the noise 
> started.  Its possible the engine had been sitting for a while before I 
> bought it.  During the ride the bike seemed to perform 100% fine, aside from 
> the noise.  Back at home I took a video to capture the noise.
>  
> I used a tube to listen to the engine and I think the noise is coming from 
> the back of the lower crankcase.  From the reading I've down it sounds like 
> that type of noise means a valve needs to be adjusted?  But the Clymer reads 
> the valves adjust themselves automatically?  So maybe a piston ring is off or 
> something?
>  
> Can anyone watch the video and help ID the noise?  At this point I think my 
> best bet is to take it to a shop and have pros look at it.  Even if I have to 
> shell out an arm and a leg I just want to be on the road again.
>  
> http://youtu.be/PurYX89KWzc
>  
> Thanks!
>  
> - Matt
>  
>  
> 
> On Friday, April 20, 2012 10:44:30 PM UTC-4, Matthew Webb wrote:
> Hi my name is Matt.  I'm new to the group and I recently got my first bike, a 
> 1992 CB750 with 3,800 miles for $1,800.  It was always garage kept and in 
> very good condition.
> 
> I had had the bike for only about 2 months but had put almost 2,000 miles on 
> it already.  At the time I was getting home from work in the dark and the 
> cold and kept putting off my first bike maintenance until a weekend when I 
> could do some work in the daylight.  I made a big rookie mistake and ran my 
> bike dry and the engine locked up when I stopped at a traffic light.  The low 
> oil indicator light had turned on that morning but I was hurrying to a 
> meeting and thought I would be able to make it before things got serious. 
> 
> I got my bike back to my house, and a few weeks later poured some oil over 
> the top of the engine, manually turned the engine, and then was able to get 
> it to start with no problem.  However, the engine didn't seem to respond 
> right.  So I looked into the top more and found some pretty serious scouring 
> on the exhaust camshafts, exhaust camshaft holders, and crankcase.  It also 
> looks like some of the rubber stuff on the defoaming chamber covers melted, 
> but I'm not sure.  The rest of the top end looked completely fine, even the 
> intake camshaft.  See pictures for details but be warned, they are 
> depressing.  
> 
> I am worried that pieces of metal may have gotten into the bottom of the 
> engine and wrecked more havoc.  I'm also wondering if there may be more 
> damage than I've seen from when my engine locked up.  Does anyone know what 
> damage is typical when you run your engine dry? Is it likely the entire 
> engine will need to be replaced?
> 
> I have searched past messages but have not found much.  Possibly because I 
> don't know what is best to search for.  I've done a lot of other reading so 
> far and have some ideas but wanted to run it by the group first.
> 
> To me it looks like I have a few options:
> 
> 1) Sell the bike as is on CL for parts to someone who knows what they are 
> doing
> 2) Purchase replacement parts for the damaged components and replace them.  
> With a quick search I have found these on ebay: cylinder head, another 
> cylinder head,camshafts.  I don't have much experience working with engines 
> but I do have a Clymer manual.  The camshafts and holders look easy to 
> replace but the body of the crankcase is also damaged where the camshafts 
> sit.  Would it be possible to have a shop re-machine it so that I wouldn't 
> need to replace it?
> 3) Take it to a shop, have them replace the parts and open the bottom of the 
> engine to look for more damage.
> 4) Purchase another CB750 and use my first one as a parts bike.  Also part 
> out my first one on ebay since the rest of the bike is in excellent condition.
> 
> Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.
> 
> - Matt
> 
> 
> 
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