I've taken the time to jet before, and it is a pita. I think I pulled my
carbs a half dozen times to change jets and needle positions. I used the
factory pro tuning guide as a reference. However I found that you should
set the pilot circuits first then go to main jet sizes then needle
position. A valve job and sync should be done first, then I set the pilots
then check the sync again. Pretty much if you are holding 3/4 throttle to
maintain 70 mph your main jets are too small. Once you go through the
process you can just tell what it needs just by riding a bike. Then again
if you can drop $500 pay for a dyno tune from a reputable shop.

Allen Thomas
On Feb 13, 2015 9:06 PM, "Jeremy" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Stock airbox and filter with stock exhaust?  If yes there is a carburetor
> issue, valve adjustment and sync.  If no then jetting is needed.  A common
> practice is to open the idle fuel mix open, but the correct way is a jet
> kit and start with the main jet, then main needle height, then float level
> and last pilot and a/f.  The carb circuits work together one part affects
> the other.  And it's trial and error, a dyno tune is best.  Factory pro has
> a good chart on dialing in.  I personally never good at it and always just
> stick with stock.  You'll never be able to dial in bike with out loading
> it, so road or dyno is the only options. And only change one thing at a
> time then try again.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Feb 13, 2015, at 5:00 PM, Tommy Hill <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > Allen,
> >
> >     Especially you, but anyone with tips.  Paid someone to set it with a
> probe.  Wanted it perfect, but It ain't right!  He will fix, but it is over
> an hour away.  In a slightly too high a gear, it accelerates, but skips a
> little.  Seems rich(?).  So I leaned it half a turn.  Much better but still
> slight skipping.  Another quarter turn made it worse.  Suggestions?
> Possibly plugs?  Plugs look fine, but no idea how old they are.
> >
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