Let me add what I mean by slats. I sometimes use paint sticks cut in
thirds. I start off using as many necessary to fill the space in the
calipers. Then pump the brakes till the pistons can’t go beyond the sticks.
One piston usually gets to the sticks before the other. The sticks stops
the first piston from going any further, allowing the second piston to
catch up. Then remove sticks to keep the pistons emerging at the same time

On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 5:35 PM Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
wrote:

> Jenya, I’m guessing it was like that before you bled the brakes. An hours
> work to clean the calipers, maybe a little longer because you have two sets
> to do. Worthwhile though. The hardest part is pumping the pistons out of
> the calipers. You can do one at a time or pump out all four pistons at the
> same time.
> 1.  Unbolt the calipers on both sides so they hang freely.
> 2. Make sure your brake reservoir is full, remove the disc pads from both
> calipers. Remove the springs in the calipers.
>      Now you have the pistons exposed.
> 3.  I have wooden slats I place in the calipers where the pads were, a
> couple of different thicknesses.
> 4.  Now I carefully start pumping the brakes, watching the reservoir fluid
> level and the pistons as they start to emerge from in the calipers. The
> idea is, by using the wooden slats, to allow the pistons to be pumped out
> evenly, so that all four are just about out and can be finally extracted by
> removing the slats and pulling them out with either a last pump and/or
> carefully jiggling them out with a pair of pliers. Get them almost out by
> pumping, remove the slats or whatever you use, and sometimes one good pump
> and they all pop out along with the remaining fluid. There you go the hard
> part is done.
>
> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 5:18 PM Jenya Spektor <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Graham, Hello again!
>> The fluid was clear inside the reservoir.
>> It seem to bind in one place more then in the others.
>> The wheel does not spin freely.
>> I don't know if it was like that before I replaced the glass and bled the
>> breaks.
>> Thanks !
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 5:10 PM Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> But was the fluid clear in the reservoir before you bled the brakes, the
>>> original fluid when you unscrewed the lid off the reservoir? Are you sure
>>> it’s binding and not just resting against the rotor. Is it constant or just
>>> at a certain point on the rotor? When you anchor the back of the bike down
>>> so the front wheel is off the ground, does the wheel spin freely?
>>>
>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 4:33 PM Jenya Spektor <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have not done anything but to drain the cylinder and to replace the
>>>> glass (followed by replenishing the fluid and bleeding the breaks).
>>>> The liquid was clear when I bled the break lines.
>>>> So I am not sure why the slight binding would happen all of a sudden.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 1:35 PM Graham Rogers <
>>>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Brake pads should be loosely resting against the rotors, not binding
>>>>> them but you might hear that they are slightly resting against the rotor.
>>>>> Any binding, you need to remove the calipers and pistons and clean them
>>>>> out. Each caliper has two pistons, two rubber O rings per caliper. If
>>>>> there’s binding, a thorough cleaning should suffice.
>>>>> The test is does the front wheel spin freely when lifted off the
>>>>> ground? If so, you’re good. However what was the brake fluid like before
>>>>> you replaced the sight glass? Was it dirty, grungy, etc. if it wasn’t
>>>>> pretty much clear with no crystallization, etc, then assume the calipers
>>>>> and pistons are in the same state. If so, clean the them
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 1:01 PM Jenya Spektor <[email protected]>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> So i had to replace the sight glass - my old one had just
>>>>>> disintegrated (which I did and did well at that). I bled the brakes as 
>>>>>> per
>>>>>> the shop manual.
>>>>>> The thing is, NOW the front wheel is a bit sticky - almost feels like
>>>>>> the break pads really have no gap between the pads and the disk.
>>>>>> Is there anything else I need to do to ensure that the front breaks
>>>>>> are sound?
>>>>>> Please let me know.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Here is what I did.
>>>>>> 1. Opened the MC and drained most of the break fluid (leaving a bit
>>>>>> on the bottom).
>>>>>> 2. Replaced the sight glass, made sure there are no leaks.
>>>>>> 3. Bled the breaks on both sides (I have a 1983 NH 650 with dual disk
>>>>>> breaks in front).
>>>>>> 4. Made sure that the level is firm and when squeezed feels the same
>>>>>> way on each squeeze/application of the breaks.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Just want to make sure it done right and the breaks will work as
>>>>>> intended.
>>>>>> Thank you all,
>>>>>> jenya
>>>>>>
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>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Jenya Spektor
>>>> 917.202.3080
>>>>
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>>
>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Jenya Spektor
>> 917.202.3080
>>
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>>
>

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