Hi James,
Hello Mike
Your restoration project is looking Goood!
Thank You!
How do you know what the proper finish should be on the chassis and
motor components. Which parts should be paint black, Olds engine
blue, natural, and the correct amount of gloss level?
I take tons of pictures of other peoples cars with the same options
as mine, check with original factory photos and body and engine
assembly manual will help some times.
Also I don't really want a super correct looking car since mine is
not #'s matching. So I get close with what the factory did and do it
with better paints or powder coats. I try
not to leave any part natural metal, I put some paint on it, even the
nuts and bolts. Clear enamel nail polish/paint. Just brush on the nut
and bolts with supplied brush.
Most of the 60% black chassis and under hood items I had powdered
coated with a 80% black so it will be easier to clean. The rear axle
is powder coat in 80% black which
is not correct, but I wanted ease of clean up. I don't know what I'm
going to do with the drive shaft.. natural with a clear or 80% black
like the rest.
I try to use as much of the original hardware as possible when
putting the it back together. To keep it looking factory and so it
will work!
Do you have some type of reference book?
No book like that exists for any car as far as I know of. GM anyway.
Like I said before search the net for picts, original unmolested cars
are best. You will be able to tell
which are original after awhile. Watch how wires and hoses are run.
Brackets are bolted on. My car was a original A/C car and I'm
switching to non A/C so most of the
front of the engine had to change, bracket wise.
ebay is good too for engine bay shots, once in a great while you will
find a untouched car with photos up for auction, you will not be able
to afford it but you can use it
as a photo source.
Thanks
Your welcome
James Aiello
1970 442
1974 98
1968 GTO
Mike McDonald
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
1972 Hurst/Olds sunroof coupe
as seen on Speed TV
"The American Musclecar"
or
www.72ho.com
