Dieter wrote:
So I'm reading about 200 Hz tvs/monitors at
http://DansData.com/askdan00043.htm
and a few questions come to mind. If a single-link DVI
maxes out at 1920x1200 60 Hz, then 1920x1200 120 Hz should
max out dual-link DVI. So even dual-link isn't fast enough
for 200 Hz. A first order wild guess calculation says
dual-link might be good for 1920x1080 at approx 133 Hz.
Does HDMI or Displayport have a higher limit than DVI?
Like USB, there are faster versions of HDMI.
1.2 does 1080p/60 @24bits per pixel
1.3 adds more bits per pixel
1.4 does 4x (2x vertical and 2x horizontal) at up to 30Hz
So version 1.4 would have no problem with 1x HD 3D but what most people
have now would only do 3D at 1080i/30.
Last time I looked at LCD speeds, they weren't fast enough
to do 60 Hz properly. For 200 Hz you'd want the worst case
change time to be < 5 milliseconds. The marketing numbers
they throw around are *not* worst case. Dan neglects to
mention this problem.
Dan's writing is confusing. First he says that 200 Hz TVs
"have a genuine 200Hz frame-rate". Then later he says
" "200Hz" televisions are not the same as "200Hz" computer
monitors " and "we'll be seeing complaints from poor schmoes
who've spent all week trying to make 3D Vision work with their
new $US2000 "200Hz" LCD TV". As far as I can see, the
difference is that TVs include fancy image processing (and a
tuner). Surely you can turn off the image processing?
Or is there some other difference that would spoil shutter
glasses 3D?
I think that persistence might be an issue. With CRTs, TV sets have a
longer persistence phosphor than computer monitors because then need to
display 30 frames per second interlaced images. I do not know if that
is an issue with LCD sets, but if they are going to display 3D at even
24 frames per second, then they are going to need to have some control
over the persistence.
Speaking of 3D, does anyone have a pair of the recent yellow/purple
glasses they could run through a transparency scanner? Given
the various descriptions of the colors (yellow-amber-brown, and
blue-purple) it's hard to know what colors to look for to build
a pair.
I don't think that that would help. I would guess that would need
proper yellow (minus blue) and magenta (minus green) filters. Exactly
what transmission characteristics would be optimum would depend on the
transmission characteristics of the LCD filters or the CRT or plasma
phosphors. Color photography defines Red as 600 to 700nm, Green as 500
to 600nm and blue as 400 to 500nm. These figures are not exactly what
the eye sees, so I wonder if color TV goes along with this or is
different. IAC, for photography colors, you would need Wratten #12
(minus blue) and #32 (minus green).
--
James Tyrer
Linux (mostly) From Scratch
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