The recent, rare discussion of orchid culture concerning repotting of Cattleyas has been welcome and useful.  It has also stimulated me to bring up a culture issue that has been driving me nuts for years.

 

Stated briefly, when I repot Cattleyas or Dendrobiums  that have been in the pot for 2-5 years, most of the roots in the pots (ceramic slit pots) appear to be dead.  Top growth on the plants usually appears healthy, and new, white roots with little green tips are growing at the base of new, vegetative growth.  Most of the new roots are external to the potting medium  Most of the roots in the potting medium are brown and flat.   If the potting medium is dry, the roots are still soggy and wet.  Some can be detached from the plant with a gentle tug.  The sheath can be stripped from other roots with a gentle tug leaving a hair-like central core which I presume is xylem and perhaps cambium and some phloem.  None of these roots appears functional, although I could be wrong.

 

The problem is that the �dead� roots become substrates for bacteria and fungi which can eventually kill the entire plant.

 

At one time I attributed the dead-root-syndrome to roots that had been exposed to bark mixes too long.  Then I changed to pure red lava rock which does not break down.  Results have been similar; good top growth  but dead roots in pot after several years.

 

 About one year ago I began to use a mix recommended by someone on this digest.  It is 2 parts lava rock, 1 part fine charcoal, and 1 part washed coco chips.  Plants seem to be doing better in this mix but the experiment must run for several more years.  I have been using another version of this mix (1 part lava rock, 1 part charcoal, 2 parts coco chips) with some success for Oncidiums and Phalenopsis in plastic pots.  However, these also appear to require repotting after two years in the pot.

 

I have concluded  that under my conditions,  it is not possible to keep Cattleya-alliance and Dendrobiums orchids in pots more than 2 years without removing all dead roots and starting over.  Same holds true for the Oncidiums and the Phalenopsis that I grow in plastic pots.  I have no problem doing this since my collection is small (less than 200 plants in various  categories), but I�d like to know how some growers are able to keep specimen plants in the same pot for many years.

 

My location is:  Evans, Georgia, USA, about 33 .5 deg North, 82 deg West. 

 

My Conditions are: 14ft x 30 ft Turner greenhouse with 63% shade cloth oriented North/South). Yearly temperature range in greenhouse: 58 deg F to 95 deg F.  Relative humidity range 34% (brief) to 95% (overnight).  Water with tepid ground water that has about 50 ppm dissolved solids.  Water frequency depends on conditions; once every 10 days to  two weeks in winter; every 5 days in summer.  Fertilize with  liquid, balanced fertilizers (20-20-20, 100 ppm nitrogen)) every sixth watering in winter, every third watering in spring, summer, fall.  Occasional use of Cal-Mag fertilizer at 100 ppm nitrogen.  Also apply osmocote (14-14-14) to pots for summer fertilizing in addition to the liquid fertilizer. 

 

In the event that this sounds like too much fertilizer, I have also had root problems using the weekly-weakly approach.

 

All suggestions, comments, etc. will be welcome.

 

Gene Howard

Evans, Georgia

 

 

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