http://www.time.com/time/europe/magazine/article/0,13005,901050207-1022567,00.html


AFRICA | SOMALIA 

 
The Point Of No Return

With the government in exile in Kenya and the country ruled by rival
clans, Somalia struggles to become a functioning state again
 
By STEPHAN FARIS | MOGADISHU


Sunday, Jan. 30, 2005

In Somalia, even the dead don't rest in peace. Masked gunmen,
allegedly in league with the powerful Islamic courts in Mogadishu, the
capital, recently laid waste to an Italian colonial cemetery. After
breaking open the tombs and pulling up the coffins, they dumped the
human remains near the city's decrepit airport. The Militiamen now in
control of the cemetery have begun to build a mosque there. The first
to discover the desecration was a group of children who picked up
bones and skulls and took them away as toys. Such horrors are all too
common in Somalia. "For 14 years we have been living like this," says
Dahir Ali Adow, 22, a student at Mogadishu University. "What we need
is law and order to restore the peace." 

Many Somalis, and plenty of Western leaders, had hoped the anarchy
would end after the formation of a new government last October, the
result of two years of talks in neighboring Kenya between warlords and
Somali clan elders. The new leaders promised it would bring security
and prosperity to their war-torn East African country and rein in the
unelected cadres of businessmen and Islamic fundamentalists exploiting
the chaos to extend their power bases. 

So far, though, President Abdullahi Yusuf Ahmed and his government,
led by Prime Minister Ali Mohammed Ghedi, haven't even made it home.
Holed up in the Kenyan capital, Nairobi, many of the new Somali M.P.s
� and even the new President himself � privately say they will not
return without the protection of African Union (A.U.) troops. "It's
sort of the Wild West there," says Colonel Craig Huddleston, Chief of
Staff for the U.S.-led task force for East Africa. "Extremists of all
flavors can feel relatively free to be themselves." 

When the government does return � Ghedi has said he plans to visit
Mogadishu in early February � the task it faces is huge. Civil war and
the lack of an effective central government have left Somalia
splintered into a mosaic of clan-based fiefdoms. Two mini-states in
the north have broken away, though no country recognizes their
independence. In the Mogadishu suburbs that sprawl around the
devastated old quarter, donkey carts and machine gun-fitted pickups
compete for passage on sand-swept streets. Militias still clash
regularly and murders and kidnappings are common. 

Public infrastructure is almost nonexistent. Returning Somalia to its
prewar status will take billions of dollars, according to Maxwell
Gaylard, who heads up the United Nations' Somalia programs. "It's not
total destruction, but something pretty close to it," he says. 

The government-in-waiting in Nairobi has neither arms nor funds. When
the Asian tsunami struck the country's Indian Ocean coast, ministers
had to beg the United Nations to fly them in to survey the damage. But
before they can begin rebuilding the country, they must face down the
powerful Islamic courts and placate the businessmen. These groups form
a powerful �lite that has filled the vacuum left by the fading might
of the warlords, who destroyed Mogadishu after Mohammed Siad Barre was
ousted in 1991. 

The most determined opposition will come from the Islamic courts.
Started as small-scale operations set up by the city's clans, they
gained influence when Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and other Islamic countries
provided funding as part of a drive to promote Islam. Now the courts
have become one of the city's most powerful political forces. For now,
they are avoiding head-on confrontation with the government and have
denied playing a role in the desecration of the Italian cemetery. But
lately they've been flexing their muscles, banning New Year's
celebrations and organizing protests against proposals to bring A.U.
troops to the country. Court officials also play politics, reminding
their compatriots that Yusuf Ahmed was among the first to take up arms
against Siad Barre. "It's nonsense to throw out one dictator and
replace him with another," says Sheikh Sharif Ahmed Mohamed, the head
of the court system's umbrella group.

The Islamic courts oppose the deployment of A.U. troops to protect the
incoming administration because they privately fear their own militias
will be curtailed. Publicly, they warn that foreigners could
compromise local morality. If foreign troops do come, predicts Sharif,
"Military action will happen." Others seem to read the situation the
same way. At his swearing in last October, Yusuf Ahmed called for at
least 15,000 A.U. soldiers to be deployed; within days the price of a
Russian-made AK-47 in Mogadishu's main market jumped from $300 to
$400. "Nobody wants to be seen opposing the restoration of
government," says Matt Bryden of the International Crisis Group. "But
it's very easy to bang the drum and oppose a foreign intervention."
Just last week, gunmen assassinated the acting chief of police in his
own house. Officials interpret this as a warning against importing
outside forces. 

The U.S. military suspects Islamic extremists could be behind the
killing. "They would certainly be at the top of my list, because the
return of government to Somalia would make it much more difficult for
extremists to operate," says Huddleston. In addition to homegrown
militants, an East African al-Qaeda affiliate is building a power base
in Mogadishu, say U.S. sources. 

Opposition from Islamic courts and militants is by no means the only
challenge facing the new regime. It must also convince Somalia's
entrepreneurs, many of whom control their own private armies, that
government will be good for business. Cell-phone companies offer some
of the lowest rates in the region, and a Somali businessman recently
built a modern, white-walled soft drink�bottling plant in the capital.
Somalia needs the economic activity, but not the clashes between
warlords and entrepreneurs that come with it. 

Another big threat comes from within. The 275 Members of Parliament
were selected to balance the power of each clan and bring dissenters
to the table. But the two-year-long talks concentrated on divvying up
spoils rather than on reconciliation. The warlords, even those who are
part of the new government, could still cause mayhem. 

Support in Mogadishu for the government remains high, despite its
shaky start. "Bad government is better than the lack of government,"
says Narifa Abdulhalim Mohammed, 28, an economics major at the
university. The President may try to co-opt the Islamic courts by
making them an independent judicial arm of government. 

And Somalia's businessmen will accept some taxation and regulation if
they get stability in return. As long as the government stays united,
even the warlords might play along. "If they see � one by one � that
it's in their interest to stay inside the tent and point their guns
out, then together they might have enough power to confront anybody
who tries to stop this," says a Western diplomat in Nairobi. 

Past attempts to bring government to Somalia have been less lucky. "My
worst fear is of a very weak attempt and for this government to fail,"
says Ali Iman Sharmarke, the head of HornAfrik, an independent
television and radio group. "And then the people � a hopeless society
seeking law and order � will turn to [the Islamic courts] as an
alternative."


>From the Feb. 07, 2005 issue of TIME Europe magazine










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