For me – once card stock is scored it can be folded either way. Only the
heavy stuff for tanks and ship frames (1MM or so) need to be scored on the
reverse side.

For these I use a thin long needle they are much stronger that pins and can
be inserted with the assistance of a small pare of long nosed pliers.

I use two pare one to push the needle and the other to support the reverse
side. Push the needle between the hand grips of the pliers on the reverse
side rather than into your hand - that can hurt.

Jim

James J. Hairston

8559 Birch Creek Rd.

Keller Tx. 76248

H: (817) 337-4183; E-Mail:  <mailto:[email protected]>
[email protected]

 <mailto:[email protected]>  

 <mailto:[email protected]>  

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of [email protected]
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 9:08 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Papermodels II 35272] Re: Can I get someones opinion on how to not
having to puncture the  paper...

 


In a message dated 3/24/09 7:33:31 AM, [email protected] writes:





I have used a straight pin to put small holes in the paper outside of
the printed part to show the ends of a straight score line so the
paper could be flipped and reverse scored.  If you do not want to
punch holes in the paper try using a tracing light box and mark the
scoring lines on the reverse side of the paper.  Some have some very
bright light.  Another way is to use a window with some very bright
sunlight shining through it and mark the scoring lines that way.  I
have used all of the methods mentioned when a reverse score is needed.


A sheet or two of white kleenex as a soft pad added between the parts page
and light table or window surface helps in making wing ribbing more
pronounced. 

Bob Penikas


**************
Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less.
(http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)




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