> The tube holds charge. BIG charge. Compact Macs were dangerous because  
> of this and I'd assume it's more than a CM on an iMac.
> 
> -Korin
> On Tuesday, December 3, 2002, at 09:13  PM, Dean Arthur wrote:
> 
> >> extremely high voltage at the CRT's yoke.
> >
> > Since when is 15 KV "extremely high voltage?" Rule of thumb is 1 KV per
> > diagonal inch of CRT. So a 32-inch viewable screen would require 32 KV
> > for deflection.

Horizontal circuit driving both flyback transformer and horizontal 
beam deflection.  Flyback itself generates different voltages, one of 
voltages sources is HV for the tube via that fat red wire ending in 
rubber cup.  HV is what needed to give electrons a kick towards 
internal face of CRT's where electrons impacts phorsphours glows.

Beam deflection done by magnetic fields generated by two coils made 
up of yoke placed over the neck against tube's flare, one is 
horizontal and one for vertical.  Yoke doesn't have HV on it except 
horizontal has spikes of around 1,000 Volts that makes you jerk back 
if touched exposed horizontal terminals.  That high voltage 
spikes is caused by flyback and horizontal coil 
magnetic fields collasping violetly generating back 
voltage spike, occurs with every cycle, frequency is around 15.7khz 
for NTSC TV, monitors even higher.  Vertical is low frequency 
(60Hz for TV) and low voltage with retrace of around 48V pulse to 
kick beam from bottom left back up to upper right.

Actually for 32" tv it is about 28KV via that red wire to the rubber 
suction cup on the bell of tube.   Projectors usually are in 28 to 
30KV range.

HV for tubes is very low current but BIG OUCH!  The 
possible secondary injury is flinging one's part of body against 
something that could cut.
The true danger is from the non-isolated main sources and high 
current flowing around on the mainboard itself that has few amps.  
This is what kills & hurts real bad and that is reason I prefer that 
people who don't have famillarity with these type to leave monitors & 
TVs  alone.

If you must repair or swap, do it after unplugged overnight and 
reassemble completely to test.  If you must adjust live, use plastic 
adjusting tools and do it with one hand behind back and make sure 
someone is present.  Don't break that cardinal rule, if you don't 
feel sightest unsure about it, simply send it out for repair.

Cheers,

Wizard

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