I have heard this as well. For a camera to work in extremely cold
environments, special cold weather lubricants must be used. I once shot
a football game at Soldier Field in Chicago when the temperature was -2
Fahrenheit, which I believe is colder than -30C. (Like most Americans,
I'm not very good at F to C conversion. Sorry.) In any case, my 1/500
exposures were all half frames or less. This was 25 years ago, and the
camera was an old Mamiya 1000DTL, but I think the problem is universal.
Paul

fredd wrote:
> 
> Fred wrote :
> 
> > 2.  Well, I'm assuming that the wind chill made it seem to exposed skin
> that
> > the temperature was -30C, and that the actual temperature was higher
> > (although, depending upon where you live, you may have meant -30C before
> the
> > wind chill).  In any event, it is possible that your LX was
> malfunctioning,
> > but it might also have been frozen condensation.  (You didn't say whether
> you
> > kept it in a plastic bag, or whether you were just sticking it under your
> > coat, or how you were protecting (or not protecting) it.  Batteries do
> lost
> > their "oomph" when chilled, but what you described seemed to be more of a
> > mechanical mirror problem than an electrical shutter problem.
> 
> Yes, batteries loes their "oomph" but another point to consider in extreem
> cold is the expansion,/shrinking of plastic versus metal.
> This can and will cause binding in mechanical components.
> 
> > 3.  Supposedly, older lube grease tends to get more viscous than fresh
> > grease, so this might have been a factor - I don't think you said how
> recent
> > was the last CLA for your LX.
> 
> Even when the CLA was done as recently as the day before a trip in extreem
> cold temperatures, grease should be used according to the surrounding
> temperatures.
> I compare with my experience with handguns.
> The lube and grease that I use on my BHP in the South, will cause the gun to
> jam in Alaska.
> We have seen this problem several times in training classes.
> 
> fredd
> 
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