How well does Kodak Supra 800 push to 1600?
another option would be to push some Fuji Superia 800 - 1600.
I might even be able to get away with 800 though
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerald Cermak" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: Photos in Night Club
> I've done a lot of night photos, including holiday parties. A 50 might
not
> be wide enough. The rave pix you linked to seems to have a lot of fisheye
> pictures.
>
> Film choice is an issue. I recently shot a holiday party at work using a
> ZX-5n and 43/1.9. The first roll, Kodak Supra 800 dealt well with the
> extreme red spotlights all over the place (I shot natural light for 95%+
of
> the photos). However, the second roll of Fuji HG 1600 saturated the red
> channel with the same red spotlights, resulting in complete loss of detail
> in peoples' faces. This second roll was a big disappointment. No amount
of
> filters would have fixed that situation - the film just couldn't handle
that
> much red latitude. If the lights are heavily colored as they were at my
> recent party outing, then the fact they are tungsten or not will not make
a
> difference in the resulting light the film sees - i.e. - don't bother
> correcting for tungsten light with daylight film by using a blue filter.
>
> My suggestions are: go for natural light shots, using a high quality pro
> level print film that can handle the wider range of color latitude present
> in such situations of mono-colored artificial light. Try to borrow
> someone's FA*24/2. At 24mm F.L., you can possibly get by using handheld
as
> low as 1/15 sec, and you won't have to get so far away to get a picture of
a
> whole person. Bracket important shots. That blue spotlight on some
> subjects face may convince the meter to average the scene much brighter
than
> needed - try spot metering it. Another trick is to determine the ambient
> light levels and exposure needed for good shots, then set your exposure
> manually and forget it the rest of the night. This avoids the situation
> where the meter is fooled considerably by bright background lights, and
your
> dimly lit subjects disappear completely into the shadows and silhouettes
> when you get your prints back.
>
> Cheers,
> Gerald
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Jones" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 4:04 PM
> Subject: Photos in Night Club
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I would like to take some photos in a night club style situation, so
> > basically the only lights would be from laser lights and similar.
> >
> > My fastest lense is a F 50mm 1.7.
> >
> > The use of a Tripod wouldnt really be an option.
> >
> > Wouldnt any filters be off assistance? i'm guessing the lights are
> tungsten.
> >
> > I'll be shooting print film, not sure which one yet?
> >
> > here is a link to an example of some similar photos:
> > http://www.rave.net.au/pics/welcome2k/index.html
> >
> > Any comments appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Paul Jones
> > -
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> >
> >
>
>
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