Hi,
Thanks for the info on the exposure compensation, but the MZ-50 wont do it,
there appears to be no way to adjust the exposure compensation when in
manual mode, as the button that needs to be depressed to change it is also
the one used to adjust the aperture.
It would work fine on my MZ50 or LX, but i dont have flash for them :)
Thanks.
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: Photos in Night Club
> At 19:43 31.1.2001 -0600, you wrote:
> >Hey, it can be better than nothing. Remember, if you are using
> >an 800 iso or faster film, the flash range will be at leat 20
> >feet. It'll be a redeye monster though.
> >William Robb
>
> Why don't you set your flash as fill-in, with perhaps -1 or -0.5 flash
> exp.compensation set? (or even less, if you want just a slight fill i). I
> undersyand it's possible even on MZ or other bodies than Z-1p. I use it
> with SFXn's built-in flash, and it works very nice. Set it for -1.5 flash,
> and use normal exposure for ambient light - should bring out & freeze the
> near subject, and the background won't be underexposed. How to do it: Use
> Manual exp. mode, set exposure according to meter. THAN, dial-in
> exp.compensation. It nows applies only to RTF flash, as the main
> (shutter&aperture) exposure is freezed in the M mode.
>
> Films: Don't use the "consumer" 800 films - they mostly SUCK! Gerald
> mentioned them blooming for reds - they are just ugly. Go for the pro
films
> - I learned it the hard way. Either Fuji press 800 (it should handle reds
> much better than the ugly Superia 800 - press 800 is a pro film. But I
> don't have much experience with it - it's better to not experiment on the
> shootout, so go for the Kodak films - where others experience (and mine
> too) will tell you a lot. Even the medium-grade Kodaks can be pushed very
> well - I regulary pushed Kodak's ProFoto 400 to 800 without noticable
> problems. The porra or supra 800 will propably be great from what I saw.
>
> Take a fast wideangle with you, and don't leave the 50/1.7 home! I used
> that FOV a lot on a 2.8 zoom when shooting concerts, and other photogs on
> location did the same (of course, I alternated between 50 as "wide" and
200
> as "normal", same with them). At least it's a backup lens, propably your
> sharpest lens wide open. But for RAVE things, extreme wideangles are
> usually most liked.
>
> I would definitely bring a small, tabletop tripod w/ ball head - you can
> use it either as a shoulderbrace, or hold it against wall, put it on
> speaker, repros, tables, etc. to get smaller apertures and longer times
> for getting people blurred (quite likable sometimes), and use the RTF at
> -1.5 or such to just lightly freeze the foremost people. Don't overdo the
> flash, though: it would look really ugly if you set the flash to too much
> light - blue "foreground' and red "background" don't go together well.
>
> The advice about setting exposure first and then not worrying about it is
> good, but sometimes the light levels are changing so rapidly on rave type
> things (even several stops difference!) that it might not work. So,
bracket
> and if you know how to, spotmeter.
>
> HTH, Frantisek
>
>
>
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>
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