I think we are mixing emails. Brad did ask about playing with studio lighting. Knowing that he already had 1 AF360, that is why I said what I did.
In your case, I have already recommended the Alien Bees for real studio flashes. Otherwise, use any flashes that you have with Lumiquest softboxes on them. The problem of modeling lights is a very real one IMO. When shooting film, you really can't see the results of your work until it is too late. I went from using AF360's to Alien Bees for two reasons. One was the modeling light problem and the other was lack of flash power. Shoot the 67, I need even more DOF than on 35 and was really struggling with enough power out of the AF360's. I am happy with the Bees and the price. Bruce Saturday, December 7, 2002, 2:11:39 PM, you wrote: FK> Hi Bruce, actually my name's Feroze :) FK> 2 AF360's would cost me 4 times what FK> a decent set of lights and accessories would, plus FK> I would be without modelling lights. One of my requiremnets FK> is that they run relatively cool so "hotlights" would be a no-no. FK> How do you use your flashes then, on a bracket? FK> feroze FK> ----- Original Message ----- FK> From: "Bruce Dayton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> FK> To: "Brad Dobo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> FK> Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 6:18 PM FK> Subject: Re[8]: electra studio flash/ring flash >> Brad, >> >> Well, there's cheap as in inexpensive and cheap as in low quality. The >> cheapest way to do it is buy another AF360FGZ (I've done this) and two >> Lumiquest softboxes. Then start practicing with a 2 light setup. >> >> You can always use hotlights. You'll need a couple of reflectors >> (Home Depot) and then some strong spotlights. Photofloods are >> relatively cheap, but don't last very long (hours) and their color >> temperature changes as they burn out. Quartz last much longer and >> their color temperature is much more steady. The reason they are >> called "hot lights" is because they are very hot. Both in adjusting >> them and if you are the subject. Typical wattages are 250-500. The >> big advantage is that you can see exactly the effect of the light >> (shadows). If you are using color film, you do have to deal with >> color temperature (filtering). There are a few films already balanced >> for Tungsten. >> >> >> Bruce >> >> >> >> Saturday, December 7, 2002, 3:14:51 AM, you wrote: >> >> BD> Hey, >> >> BD> I'd love to try a studio setup. How much does *cheap* equipment cost? FK> Or >> BD> rentals? It would be fun to do some work with friends and family and FK> a bit >> BD> of still life, providing the cost isn't prohibitive. >> >> BD> Brad >> BD> ----- Original Message ----- >> BD> From: "Feroze Kistan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> BD> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> BD> Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 6:07 AM >> BD> Subject: Re: Re[6]: electra studio flash/ring flash >> >> >> >> Well this is the problem, I need to buy >> >> studio lights. I like the idea of continuous >> >> lights. It takes me ages to set up a shot >> >> and if I could have the lights on most of the time >> >> the composition would be so much easier. >> >> So what time I save in the shoot is to mine >> >> and the clients advantage >> >> >> >> Feroze >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> >> From: "William Robb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> >> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> >> Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 11:56 PM >> >> Subject: Re: Re[6]: electra studio flash/ring flash >> >> >> >> >> >> > >> >> > ----- Original Message ----- >> >> > From: Feroze Kistan >> >> > Subject: Re: Re[6]: electra studio flash/ring flash >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > > Hi Rob, >> >> > > So what is the generally accepted opinion? >> >> > > In a studio setup, for my situtation, 90% >> >> > > pack shots, and I'm just learning to shoot slides, >> >> > > will a hand held meter be more accurate than >> >> > > using the cameras meter? >> >> > >> >> > Are yoy planning on shooting with studio strobes, or continuous >> >> > light? >> >> > If you are shooting with continuous light, then the in camera >> >> > meter will be as accurate as anything. >> >> > If you are shooting with studio strobe, then it depends on how >> >> > much of the work you want to do. If you are going to do the >> >> > flash calculations yourself, using guide numbers and flash to >> >> > subject distances, then that will be as acurate as the meter, >> >> > presuming you can get an accurate estimate of your studio unit's >> >> > output (hint: you'll need a flash meter). >> >> > I wouldn't want to do it this way. I like knowing that the >> >> > exposures will be close to correct. >> >> > >> >> > William Robb >> >> > >> >> > >> >> >> >>
