I think that what you're saying is correct for unusual circumstances like those you mention: A sunset, light reflecting on water, extreme backlighting. For those situations, I too use a spotmeter and pick the spot that I want to be 18% reflectivity or the equivelant of gray. But for average lighting conditions, an incident meter is very easy to use and very accurate. Paul
"Hagner, Andrew" wrote: > > Hi Bill: > > No confusion on my part but maybe my poor writing. You are correct by > saying "reflective meter measures light reflected from a subject, and an > incident meter measures the light falling on a subject". I maintain > however, that the reflective meter gives you more useful information than > incident meter. Many of my photographs could not have been measured using > an incident meter due to distance and wide range of contrast, often > excessive even for a B&W film. In which case I had to make decisions as to > what I should let go, shadows of highlights. > > Cheers, - Andrew. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bill Owens [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: March 24, 2003 6:36 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: Hand Meters > > Andrew, > > See my earlier post on the subject. I think you are confused somewhat about > incident metering. Both a reflected meter and an incident meter measure > ambient light, the difference being that a reflective meter measures light > reflected from a subject, and an incident meter measures the light falling > on a subject. Overall, usually, most of the time..... an incident meter > will be more accurate, assuming that the light falling on the dome of the > meter is in the same light as the subject. IOW, you point a reflective > meter at the subject, and an incident meter is placed near the subject and > pointed towards the camera. > > Hope this helps, > > Bill > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Hagner, Andrew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 5:54 PM > Subject: RE: Hand Meters > > > Steve: > > > > The light that is recorded on film is the reflected light from your > subject. > > The ambient meters measure only ambient light and ignores the > > reflected light, so logically the reflected light meters give you > > information that > you > > actually need. Ambient meters, however work in many situations. When > > the contrast range is not exceeding the film contrast and when the > > same type > of > > light hits your subject as it hits your meter then the ambient meters > > are fine. When you are photographing a distant scene in an > > interesting light, it is likely that the light hitting your meter is > > very different from the one that is falling on the scene. In this > > case the ambient meter gives > you > > no useful information. If the scene exceeds the film contrast then > > again, ambient meter gives you information relevant to the middle > > tones but the highlight and shadows will be outside the films range. > > In this case the ambient meter gives you no information on the > > contrast range. > > > > So, my recommendation is to use a reflected spot meter which overcomes > these > > shortcomings. With little practice it is hard to make an error in > exposure > > provided the meter is linear and is properly calibrated. My favourite > > one is the Zone VI modified Pentax digital meter. Very simple, > > reliable and accurate. > > > > Cheers, - Andrew. > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Steve Desjardins [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Sent: March 24, 2003 1:40 PM > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Subject: Hand Meters > > > > > > What would folks recommend in a handmeter, spot or ambient? > > > > > > Steven Desjardins > > Department of Chemistry > > Washington and Lee University > > Lexington, VA 24450 > > (540) 458-8873 > > FAX: (540) 458-8878 > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > >
