I always use somewhat tighter, if not necessarily optimally sized,
hoods.
But I don't think that this is the cause of the problem. The cause
seems to be a combination of underexposure and effects of fluctuating
power. I've never seen this kind of banding on any of my cameras
without underexposure at least.
Godfrey
On Oct 21, 2005, at 8:36 AM, Shel Belinkoff wrote:
The shot I posted was made on Bruce's D using, I think, an A50/2.0
lens. I
don't recall what hood I used with it - probably a normal 50mm
hood. The
shot was one of the first dozen shots I ever made using a DSLR
With my DS, I always use tighter hoods. For example, for the 50mm
I use
the hood from a 105mm Takumar, for 35mm I use a 50mm hood, for the
77mm I
also use a 105mm hood, although I'm going to try a 135mm hood
soon. I've
not yet really experimented to see just how tight I can go. I
believe with
the DSLR a tighter hood than the 105 can be used with the 50mm as
that's
the hood I use with film, and it doesn't vignette in that case.
It's also
possible that a tighter hood can be used on the 35mm and certainly
the 77mm.
OK, I just did a quick test. The hood for the Super-Tak 135/35
works just
fine on the 50mm lens, and would, of course, work well on the
77mm. For
the 35mm lens I used a generic hood that is the same diameter as
the 135mm
Super Tak hood, but a little shorter - between the 105mm hood and
the 135mm
hood in length, and it didn't vignette.
So, these initial tests suggest that very tight hoods can be used -
tighter
than one might think, perhaps.
Shel
[Original Message]
From: Rob Studdert
Fair enough, are you using tighter hoods on your lenses than you
would
for 35mm
full frame use?
Why I ask is that I have a yet unproved theory that the sort of
banding
you saw
may be a product of strong stray light hitting the supposedly
inactive
area of
the sensor.
