Re "shooting the moon"
    The moon is illuminated by the same light as the earth. The "F16" rule
applies. Add a 1/2 stop increase for moon rise and fall. For moon scapes
expose first for the moon then block the moon and make a second exposure
using the OTF.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Adam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 7:13 PM
Subject: RE: Aurora Borealis shooting (WAS: Re: LX OTF metering, useful to
you?)


>
> Would it not result in a more detailed, less 'diffuse' image of the aurora
> if the exposure
> was kept as short as possible, i.e. with the largest f-stop possible? At
245
> seconds,
> (that is over 4 minutes!), I have seen auroral curtains move half way
across
> the sky (actually,
> right off the frame when using a 15mm), and have had to resort to the 16mm
> fisheye on the LX,
> and the Arsat 30mm fisheye on the 645, all of them wide open.
>
> Being shot at infinity, using wide angles, this should take care of the
> foreground being in
> focus as well, even wide open, no?
>
> As for the moon, do you have a trick? I'd like to increase the number of
> nights I can shoot,
> but I find that the moon washes out the sky in no time at all, and have
> resorted to simply
> not shoot between half moons.
>
> When you mention pushing with E100VS, do you exceed 1 stop ? And do you
have
> any views on
> Elitechrome 200 ?
>
> As for the film flatness, I fear that cold temperatures will simply
> exacerbate the problems.
> One would need to keep the camera back warm without affecting the optics,
> assuming it makes
> a noticeable difference.
>
> Michel
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Subject: Aurora Borealis shooting (WAS: Re: LX OTF metering, useful to
> you?)
>
> > > Do you find it a problem that the city lights will shorten the
> > > exposure too much when trying to get the Aurora on film?
>
>
> P�l wrote:
>
> > I avoid city lights when shooting auroras. I prefer no signs of the
"hand
> of man" in
> > my pictures. I do, howewer, usually include parts of the landscape in my
> aurora
> > images; I treat it as landscape photography. I don't go for those grainy
> and fuzzy
> > aurora pictures usually published but aim for landscape images that can
> take enlargement.
>
> > > When not using the OTF metering, do you have a preferred routine
> > > for exposing, i.e. 5, 10, 15, 30 sec, f/1.4 sort of thing ?
>
> > I determine exposure by using the LX then dial in that exposure on my
> 645n. I use
> > exposure compensation on the LX; usually minus 2/3 stop because I don't
> want it to
> > look light daylight; you need the night feel. I does depend though on
how
> powerful
> > the Aurora is. If its very bright I might not compensate at all because
> the meter
> > treat it like any backlit subject and will give the desired
> "underexposure". The degree
> > of compensation depends of course on the reciprocity characteristics of
> the film.
> > I use the lens at F:4 because wider apertures don't give desired
> sharpness. The 645n
> > is a totall hit and miss (mostly miss) affair because of film flatness
> problems that
> > seems unsolveable (more of that in another post).
>
> >
> > > And which emulsion(s) do you find gives better results?
>
>
> > Kodak E100VS by a far margin. Give the most realistic colors due to its
> blue bias.
> > The Aurora is very green (usually) but our brains compensate for it. By
> using a more
> > neutral film the result is far greener than our brain experience the
> phenomena. The
> > Ektachrome E-emulsion also have excellent reciprocity chracteristics
also
> the way it
> > renders blue yields punchy images. It also reacts well to pushing. At
100
> ISO and F:4
> > shutter speed varies typically from 90s (full moon) to 245s.
>
>
> > P�l
>
>
> -
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