MIchel wrote:

> Do you find it a problem that the city lights will shorten the
> exposure too much when trying to get the Aurora on film?


I avoid city lights when shooting auroras. I prefer no signs of the "hand of man" in 
my pictures. I do, howewer, usually include parts of the landscape in my aurora 
images; I treat it as landscape photography. I don't go for those grainy and fuzzy 
aurora pictures usually published but aim for landscape images that can take 
enlargement.


> When not using the OTF metering, do you have a preferred routine
> for exposing, i.e. 5, 10, 15, 30 sec, f/1.4 sort of thing ?


I determine exposure by using the LX then dial in that exposure on my 645n. I use 
exposure compensation on the LX; usually minus 2/3 stop because I don't want it to 
look light daylight; you need the night feel. I does depend though on how powerful the 
Aurora is. If its very bright I might not compensate at all because the meter treat it 
like any backlit subject and will give the desired "underexposure". The degree of 
compensation depends of course on the reciprocity characteristics of the film.
I use the lens at F:4 because wider apertures don't give desired sharpness. The 645n 
is a totall hit and miss (mostly miss) affair because of film flatness problems that 
seems unsolveable (more of that in another post).

> 
> And which emulsion(s) do you find gives better results?


Kodak E100VS by a far margin. Give the most realistic colors due to its blue bias. The 
Aurora is very green (usually) but our brains compensate for it. By using a more 
neutral film the result is far greener than our brain experience the phenomena. The 
Ektachrome E-emulsion also have excellent reciprocity chracteristics also the way it 
renders blue yields punchy images. It also reacts well to pushing. At 100 ISO and F:4 
shutter speed varies typically from 90s (full moon) to 245s. 


P�l


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