Superb. Thanks for sharing -- both the tale and the pics. Great work. 
Paul
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Bob W" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 
> I came back yesterday from a cycle trip around Dorset, Wilts and
> Hants. Here are the pictures in case you don't want to read all the
> guff below: http://www.web-options.com/Byway/  
> 
> Here's a couple of old boys who should join the PDML:
> http://www.web-options.com/Byway/content/_6185590_large.html
> 
> I cut the trip short a few days because I blew my accommodation budget
> in just 3 nights - it was costing me 2-3 times more than anticipated.
> The prices of B&Bs around there is outrageous, and frankly I got sick
> of traipsing around looking for somewhere reasonably priced, then
> having to settle for the top end of the market because there were no
> other vacancies anywhere. 
> 
> Anyway, the cycling itself was very enjoyable, but difficult at times.
> I don't know why they call them Downs - they seem mostly to be Ups,
> into a headwind. I took the train to Tisbury on Monday, cycled to
> Shaftesbury, which is a lovely town, and spent a very enjoyable
> evening there. In the morning I cycled across Cranborne Chase via
> Melbury, Ashmore, Farnham and the Gussages, up to Cranborne, Tidpit
> and Rockbourne to Fordingbridge, where I had a huge problem finding
> accommodation, but eventually found a grotty little place in a nearby
> village. 
> 
> By that time one of my spokes was breaking, which made the back wheel
> wobble and catch the brake pads. I had to loosen the brakes almost to
> the point of danger to let the wheel spin at all. I couldn't find
> anyone to repair it quickly in Fordingbridge, so the next day I cycled
> up to Salisbury along the edge of the New Forest via Brune Purlieu,
> Woodgreen, Alderbury, East Grimstead, Farley and Pitton.
> 
> I found a very good, helpful bike shop in Salisbury (Stonehenge
> Cycles, if you ever need a bike fixing in Salisbury!
> http://www.stonehengecycles.com/) and he was able to replace the spoke
> and true the wheel in the morning. He was also helpful in recommending
> several B&Bs, but they were all full and I had to settle for the only
> vacancy I could find, which was humungously expensive - not much
> cheaper than one of the top hotels in town. Next morning I heard one
> of the guests had arrived at 2am after searching the whole of
> Salisbury, accommodation being so scarce. Probably all the druids have
> booked the rooms.
> 
> When I had the bike back I headed back to Tisbury via
> Stratford-sub-Castle, the Woodfords, Wylye Valley and then down across
> Cranborne Chase via Dinton and Teffont Magna. Including various
> side-trips (and getting lost) I cycled about 110 miles - over half of
> it on an out-of-true back wheel.
> 
> The countryside and villages are quite spectacular. Some of the
> villages, especially on Cranborne Chase, are quite breathtakingly
> beautiful, they're so ancient and crumbling. Mostly I didn't even
> bother trying to photograph them. To get the best shots you need to
> wait around for the light, and to find the best view, but even then
> you'd just have a postcard view. To do the places justice I think you
> need to live there and have the places as a background to the locals'
> lives, as James Ravilious did in Devon.
> 
> But it's a wonderful area to cycle (although some of the hills are
> hard work) and shows the very best of tourist board England. I was
> very surprised in Hampshire though that so few of the villages still
> had pubs. I'd planned on pub lunches, but from Fordingbridge up to
> Pitton not a single village still had a pub. The pub in Pitton
> wouldn't serve me any food because it was after 2pm and the chef had
> gone home. Apparently only chefs can make a ploughman's lunch, which
> probably explains the absence of ploughmen in Hampshire - they've all
> starved to death. The villages in Hampshire seem dead - just dormitory
> villages - whereas at least in Dorset and Wiltshire they seem to have
> something other than rich commuters.
> 
> Salisbury and the area around the Cathedral Close are really stunning
> in the summer evening light. Unfortunately the cathedral itself is
> covered in scaffolding at the moment, but the cathedral close is very
> beautiful.
> 
> I'd like to have gone to Filly Loo tonight in Ashmore (that's their
> annual festival when they have pagan rituals round the duck pond), and
> earlier I was still debating whether to drive over and back today, but
> I'm very tired (slept 11 hours last night), so I'll give it a miss
> until next year. 
> 
> I still plan to cycle around South and West Dorset and visit various
> Hardy sites, and the prehistoric and Roman sites, but I'll do it from
> a base near Dorchester. Maybe even next week, if I can find some cheap
> accommodation at such short notice.
> 
> Cheers,
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
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