This information is invaluable.  I'm saving it to my computer for
future reference.  Thank you so much.  By the way, what scanner do you
use?

rg2


On 9/7/07, P. J. Alling <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Equipment for developing B&W film in your kitchen or bathroom sink.
> (With commentary).
>
> 1. Someplace dark to move film around, (I use a closet after midnight,
> but I'm thinking of investing in a film changing bag).
>
> 2. Film developing tank, (I prefer stainless steel with PVC plastic
> tops, but almost any will do).
>
> 3. Reels to match the tank, and your film format. (I prefer Kinderman,
> no longer available new as far as I know, but their optional automatic
> film loaders make loading the reels a snap, not that it's difficult to
> do otherwise, but it does take practice.). If you're using stainless
> steel, as opposed to plastic watch out for slightly bent reels, they can
> make film loading impossible, If you're using plastic, keep the reels
> scrupulously clean and dry before each use for the same reason).
>
> 4. Minimum three bottles for working solutions. One for Fixer, one for
> Stop, one for Developer). You can skip the stop bath, and just rinse the
> film with water, but it's cheap and Ilford produces a citric acid
> version that's very environmentally benign. You can use a varsity of
> other chemicals as well to make your live easier. I usually treat my
> film with Kodak photo flo, (really just a very concentrated detergent,
> which improves chances that the film will dry spot free). Never made a
> stock or working solution. an old cap from a bottle that takes a screw
> on medicine dropper will work fine as a measure. About 1/2 a cap full is
> enough to treat 1-4 35mm or 1-2 120 rolls. There were at one time
> various fast film drying agents available, maybe there still are, DON"T
> USE THEM. There were also a number of Hypo Clearing agents to reduce
> washing time and water use, but I haven't seen any of them in years.
>
> 5. One or Two graduated cylinders for measurement, (you can get away
> with using a measuring cup depending on the chemicals you use, but you
> can usually find plastic photo graduates inexpensively, some shops are
> figuratively speaking giving them away).
>
> 5. An immersible thermometric, with temperatures in 1/2 degrees. showing
> the range from 60° F. ~15.5° C to 80° F ~26.5° C.
>
> 6.) Some kind of timer. (I've been using my watch, a dedicated timer is
> nice but not necessary, if you're capable of enough organization to have
> gotten this far a watch is all you need).
>
> That's all you really need. If you're using chemicals that need to be
> mixed to a stock solution, you'll need more bottles but the basics are
> very simple.
>
>
>
> Glen Tortorella wrote:
> > Whoa, $0.60 a roll--that beats the heck out of $16.95 (plus tax)!
> > Unfortunately, I have never developed a roll of film.  What equipment
> > would I need?  I do not have a "darkroom" per se.  I have a
> > basement.  Would I be able to develop at night in my basement?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Glen
> >
> > On Sep 7, 2007, at 10:48 AM, Adam Maas wrote:
> >
> >
> >> Glen,
> >>
> >> Mailers are a cheap option for getting E6 slide film processed.
> >> They are not economical for B&W. For cheap processing of Fuji
> >> Acros, do it yourself. I recommend Agfa or A&O Rodinal at 1:50
> >> dilution for 12 minutes at 20C, 30 seconds initial agitation with 2
> >> inversions per minute. Should run you about $0.60 or less per roll
> >> (including stop & fix) if you 1-shot the dev and reuse stop & fix.
> >>
> >> -Adam
> >>
> >>
> >> Glen Tortorella wrote:
> >>
> >>> Hi Adam,
> >>>
> >>> Recently, I have gotten some rolls of non-C41 B&W, some Fuji Acros
> >>> 100.  I see you mention mailers here, indicating that they are
> >>> cheaper.  What (or who) do you recommend for developing these
> >>> prints?  I would like to be economical--but get good quality--and a
> >>> mailer would be fine.  The mailers I had been looking at, though
> >>> (about a year or so ago), seemed rather expensive (and one had to
> >>> send several rolls in order to save what seemed like only a small
> >>> amount of money).  Please let me know what you think.
> >>>
> >>> Regards,
> >>> Glen
> >>>
> >>> On Sep 7, 2007, at 7:58 AM, Adam Maas wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> John Sessoms wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> From:
> >>>>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> I think Adam is correct. The popularity of the disposals is
> >>>>>> waning. Most cellphones can take a better picture than a plastic
> >>>>>> lens, fixed focus disposable. And consumers will eventually
> >>>>>> figure that out. But films that are applicable to fine art
> >>>>>> photography will continue to be available indefinitely, although
> >>>>>> at higher prices.
> >>>>>> Paul
> >>>>>>
> >>>>> May be. All I know is what I see, and I'm getting nine disposable
> >>>>> 35mm
> >>>>> cameras for every one 35mm roll of film. About half the 35mm rolls
> >>>>> I do
> >>>>> get are chromogenic B&W film and I get the occasional disposable
> >>>>> camera
> >>>>> loaded with that film.
> >>>>>
> >>>> Remember that you aren't going to be seeing almost all B&W film
> >>>> (Since
> >>>> that's mostly self-developed) and much E6 (since mailers are so much
> >>>> cheaper). C41 is for the most part a consumer product, and that's
> >>>> what
> >>>> you're seeing. When the disposables evaporate (and that's coming),
> >>>> consumer film is dead.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> I'd also say about half the disposable cameras are "No-Name"
> >>>>> cameras in
> >>>>> cardboard sleeves. When you open them they frequently turn out
> >>>>> to be
> >>>>> recycled disposables, held closed with electricians tape and
> >>>>> loaded with
> >>>>> whatever film the manufacturer bought at bulk rates.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>> Not shocking, the no-name's are a fair bit cheaper.
> >>>>
> >>>> -Adam
> >>>>
> >>>> --
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> >>>>
> >>>
> >>
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> >
> >
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>
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