Right. As others pointed out, chances are that your jpegs are pretty good to begin with--ie, little or no adjustments are necessary before printing. If you were to do a lot of levels/curves stuff, plus maybe some dodging/burning, you'd want to have all 16 bits per channel.
Even if you start with an 8 bit image, it's best to make it 16 bit before making any adjustments--that way, you're not clamping values at each step. The original point was, there's no way to do this in Gimp. j (who this year got CS3 through a friend of a friend at Adobe--$60!) On Dec 24, 2007 1:41 PM, William Robb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Juan Buhler" > Subject: Re: OT: The modern world confuses me > > > > >> For those of us who want actual control over their workflow, and > >> repeatable results from multiple printing options, Linux is Not There > >> Yet. > > > > I do agree with that. Funny that someone who refuses to use a lossy > > compression format would process his images in an 8-bit program. That > > point made me smile. > > We've tested this at the studio. With the equipment we are using (Noritsu > digital wet lab), there is little if any visible difference between a print > made from an 8 bit jpeg and a 16 bit RAW file, presuming that the image > falls within the range of the jpeg. > > William Robb > > > > -- > PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List > [email protected] > http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net > to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow > the directions. > -- Juan Buhler - http://www.jbuhler.com -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List [email protected] http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
