I've only done 1 full 360 spherical pano: <http://www.arach.net.au/~savage/Misc/360%20Test.mov>
I've Never really had the need or desire to do more of them. Firstly I would have recommended the Panosaurus: <http://gregwired.com/pano/Pano.htm?gclid=CL724t6u0pUCFSJIagodTViShw> ...or the Nodal Ninja: <http://www.nodalninja.com/> Both are cheaper than the Manfrotto product, & the NN is more compact. But done is done. Secondly, I'm assuming that these are for a real estate website so ultimate resolution isn't a huge factor. Given that you are potentially going to be doing these regularly, consider picking up the 10-17 FE. It'll save time in the long run. Thirdly, finding the nodal point isn't hard, but it can be fiddly. The method I've used in the past, was recommended to me by Rob Studdert & works well. All you need is a length of string weighted at one end. I tied it to a light fixture & set up the camera about 1m (3') away from the string lining the camera up so that the string is in line with another straight vertical feature (a door frame). Ensure that the tripod is correctly levelled. I don't use the level built into the tripod, I use a separate bulls eye level I bought from a hardware store. Once the tripod is level, level the camera. I use a hot shoe mounted 2 axis spirit level. Using the heads adjustments get the 2 axis level, rotate the camera 90 degrees & check & adjust as needed. (if you end up doing lots of these investing in a levelling head may be a good bet) Now that the rig is levelled check that the string & door frame are still aligned. If so, focus on infinity and rotate the camera so that the string is at the extreme edge of the frame. If parallax error is evident, it'll show as separation between the edge of the droor frame & string. Adjust the forward & aft slide to compensate. now rotate the head so that the string is at the other extreme edge. Now once you are in the ball park, I recommend (as was recommended to me) taking 3 photos at each setting. Centred, extreme left, extreme right. not down shot numbers & slide settings. In Photoshop import all 3 shots into the same file, overlay them so that the string is aligned & check the results. When you find the set of images with no offset between the string & door frame, you've found your nodal point setting. The reason for this step is that you can't guarantee that your eye, when looking through the viewfinder, is always in the same spot, so you may introduce a second set of parallax errors if you just do it by eye. Now I need to hurry up so I'm not late for work :-) Cheers, Dave 2008/9/11 Paul Stenquist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: > I applied for a gig shooting virtual reality tours of houses. The job > should generate about ten assignments a month. To get a shot at it, I > had to say I had a panorama head. Shortly after sending an e-mail > application I received a call asking me to shoot a test by Friday. So > I had to order a panorama head immediately with overnight delivery. I > have to shoot vertical with a 17mm focal length, and, based on what > I've read, It seems I need a head that will allow me to adjust for > the nodal point with wide angle lenses. I took a quick look around > and bought a Bogen / Manfrotto 303PLUS QTVR Geared Panoramic Head. > It's here: > http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/293641-REG/ > Bogen_Manfrotto_303PLUS_303PLUS_QTVR_Geared_Panoramic.html. > Has anyone used this head? How hard is it to locate the nodal > point? Learning on the fly here. > Paul > > -- > PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List > [email protected] > http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net > to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow > the directions. > -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List [email protected] http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
