Great explanation, David! Thanks.
I will archive that one too. :-)

One question, though. Have you any idea how much the nodal point
change with zoom setting?

best,
Jostein

2008/9/11 David Savage <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
> I've only done 1 full 360 spherical pano:
>
> <http://www.arach.net.au/~savage/Misc/360%20Test.mov>
>
> I've Never really had the need or desire to do more of them.
>
> Firstly I would have recommended the Panosaurus:
>
> <http://gregwired.com/pano/Pano.htm?gclid=CL724t6u0pUCFSJIagodTViShw>
>
> ...or the Nodal Ninja:
>
> <http://www.nodalninja.com/>
>
> Both are cheaper than the Manfrotto product, & the NN is more compact.
> But done is done.
>
> Secondly, I'm assuming that these are for a real estate website so
> ultimate resolution isn't a huge factor. Given that you are
> potentially going to be doing these regularly, consider picking up the
> 10-17 FE. It'll save time in the long run.
>
> Thirdly, finding the nodal point isn't hard, but it can be fiddly. The
> method I've used in the past, was recommended to me by Rob Studdert &
> works well. All you need is a length of string weighted at one end. I
> tied it to a light fixture & set up the camera about 1m (3') away from
> the string lining the camera up so that the string is in line with
> another straight vertical feature (a door frame).
>
> Ensure that the tripod is correctly levelled. I don't use the level
> built into the tripod, I use a separate bulls eye level I bought from
> a hardware store. Once the tripod is level, level the camera. I use a
> hot shoe mounted 2 axis spirit level. Using the heads adjustments get
> the 2 axis level, rotate the camera 90 degrees & check & adjust as
> needed. (if you end up doing lots of these investing in a levelling
> head may be a good bet)
>
> Now that the rig is levelled check that the string & door frame are
> still aligned. If so, focus on infinity and rotate the camera so that
> the string is at the extreme edge of the frame. If parallax error is
> evident, it'll show as separation between the edge of the droor frame
> & string. Adjust the forward & aft slide to compensate. now rotate the
> head so that the string is at the other extreme edge.
>
> Now once you are in the ball park, I recommend (as was recommended to
> me) taking 3 photos at each setting. Centred, extreme left, extreme
> right. not down shot numbers & slide settings. In Photoshop import all
> 3 shots into the same file, overlay them so that the string is aligned
> & check the results. When you find the set of images with no offset
> between the string & door frame, you've found your nodal point
> setting.
>
> The reason for this step is that you can't guarantee that your eye,
> when looking through the viewfinder, is always in the same spot, so
> you may introduce a second set of parallax errors if you just do it by
> eye.
>
> Now I need to hurry up so I'm not late for work :-)
>
> Cheers,
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> 2008/9/11 Paul Stenquist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
>> I applied for a gig shooting virtual reality tours of houses. The job
>> should generate about ten assignments a month. To get a shot at it, I
>> had to say I had a panorama head. Shortly after sending an e-mail
>> application I received a call asking me to shoot a test by Friday. So
>> I had to order a panorama head immediately with overnight delivery. I
>> have to shoot vertical with a 17mm focal length, and, based on what
>> I've read, It seems I need a head that will allow me to adjust for
>> the nodal point with wide angle lenses. I took a quick look around
>> and bought a Bogen / Manfrotto 303PLUS QTVR Geared Panoramic Head.
>> It's here:
>> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/293641-REG/
>> Bogen_Manfrotto_303PLUS_303PLUS_QTVR_Geared_Panoramic.html.
>>  Has anyone used this head? How hard is it to locate the nodal
>> point? Learning on the fly here.
>> Paul
>>
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