Tim,
think "LA8PV kaller". :-)
(sorry, Norwegian insider joke)
Jostein
2008/10/15 Tim Øsleby <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
> A nice tutorial Dough. I've never photographed razing cars, but it
> sounds like a lot of fun. Archived for future referense :-)
>
> BTW. What's the meaning of the abbreviations in your sig? besides the
> obvious "I'm a VIP" ;-)
>
> MaritimTim
>
> 2008/10/10 Doug Franklin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
>> Hi Cory,
>>
>> Cory Waters wrote:
>>
>>> It's different shooting with a 400mm Prime.
>>
>> I'm still looking for the Tokina SD 400/5.6 since it's a PK-A and will be a
>> little more convenient and familiar to you.
>>
>>> It's important to remember it's not an "A" lens and you're shooting in
>>> manual. (I never shoot in manual on my K10)
>>
>> It's not that big a deal. From about 0900 through about 1630 (at Petit time
>> of year) you can just use 1/250 of a second at f/11 (f/13 maybe) with the
>> camera at its default 200 ASA setting. It's often helpful to set the camera
>> to manual and some reasonable settings instead of leaving it in
>> (Hyper)Program mode ... you can avoid some blown exposures caused by
>> sunlight glinting off race cars, windshields, stuff in the crowd, spectator
>> cars, etc.
>>
>>> It's important not to forget to look for your mono-pod when you're going
>>
>> Definitely. I love my Bogen 3218 (I think) ... big hefty 3-section unit
>> that works as a bludgeon, too. I use a Bogen 3262 (I think) medium ball
>> head on it due to the speed at which I have to work sometimes. Most of the
>> time it stays locked in place. Sometimes I'll tilt it a bit and lock it to
>> accommodate a sloped surface. Occasionally I have to do something more
>> radical, like flip the camera to portrait orientation.
>>
>>> It's important to focus correctly.
>>
>> "Zone focus" is your friend. At f/11 or f/13 you get decent DoF, even on
>> the 400, at the distances you're working. Often I'll focus on something
>> mid-track, about half way through the depth I'll be working, and leave the
>> focus there. Don't forget to configure the custom settings to allow the
>> shutter to trip even without focus confirmation.
>>
>> This approach also eases some of the "lock time" problems, presumably by
>> shortening the lock time. By "lock time" I mean the time between the
>> shutter contact closing and the shutter movement actually starting.
>>
>> For 1/250th "crossing shots" (shots of cars moving across my field of view)
>> of cars crossing at any sort of speed, the lock time runs about one focus
>> point horizontally in the viewfinder. That is, if you select the center
>> focus point for AF, and the shutter contact closes when that is the "point
>> of focus", the shot will end up with the "point of focus" about on the next
>> AF point to the left or right, in the direction of travel of the subject.
>>
>> The shutter "run time" also has an effect, assuming the Pentax DSLRs use
>> horizontal-travel shutters, which seems to be the case. At 1/250th you
>> wouldn't think it's much, but it's four times longer than 1/1000th and eight
>> times longer than 1/2000th. This difference can be visible on the photos in
>> some circumstances, as a difference in the amount of "point of focus" shift
>> on these crossing shots.
>>
>> To those of you familiar with Road Atlanta, the effect is most pronounced
>> when shooting from close to the pavement on turns six and seven and the
>> "chute" between them ('cause even a spectator can get pretty close to the
>> pavement on those turns). Get the shutter speed down slow enough during
>> panning and you'll start to see the "cylinder of focus" effect produced by
>> the car's turn and your pan having different radii.
>>
>>> My keeper rate was down significantly because of these considerations.
>>
>> Practice, practice, practice. I haven't been shooting as frequently as in
>> the past, and my keep rate definitely shows it.
>>
>>> Thanks Doug!
>>
>> You're welcome, Cory!
>>
>> --
>> Thanks,
>> DougF (KG4LMZ)
>>
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>
>
>
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> MaritimTim
>
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