Actually, I did a version of this and sent my K10D to be corrected.  I
included my FA50 which they used for calibration and that lens always
worked well.  The problem is that the K10D did not allow different
corrections for different lenses which is a problem that really can't
be fixed by anyone.  It's really frustrating to do a test and
determine the precise nature of a problem that's impossible to fix.

On Fri, Sep 3, 2010 at 10:08 AM, Miserere <miser...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On 2 September 2010 23:19, John Celio <n...@neovenator.com> wrote:
>> You don't understand.  My camera backfocuses like it was *meant* to do that,
>> even after sending it back to Pentax twice (both times for other problems,
>> but I asked them to fix this, too).  The image will look sharp in the
>> viewfinder, but when looking at the photo on my computer later it becomes
>> apparent that, even though the focus locked on a particular subject (say, a
>> person standing six feet from me), the sharpest part of the photo is just
>> behind them.  Something is misaligned, and Pentax/CRIS hasn't bothered to
>> fix it, even though their repair papers said they did.
>>
>> When I'm focusing manually, I will sometimes take a few extra photos with
>> what I see in the viewfinder slightly out of focus, hoping I'll find the
>> sweet spot somewhere.
>>
>> I swear, if I didn't have so much Pentax junk here, I'd go buy a Nikon.
>>
>> John
>> Stuck Being a Disgruntled Pentaxian
>
> I feel for you, John, as I've has similar problems. I'm going to
> outline a procedure below so you can figure out exactly what the
> problem is. First you need to print out a focus chart (well, you don't
> *have* to, but it makes things a bit easier; if you don't use a chart,
> focus on something continuous, like a floor, that will allow you to
> clearly see back/front focus). I like Yvon Bourque's:
>
> http://www.k10dbook.com/newchart.pdf
>
> 1) Set you camera on a tripod and focus manually on the center point
> in the chart (or whatever it is you've decided to use in place of a
> chart), which I'll refer to as "subject" with the center of your VF
> over it.
> 2) Take a photograph.
> 3) Rotate your focus ring to infinity, turn AF on and autofocus
> (without moving the camera) using the central AF sensor (this is why
> in point 1 you had to place your subject in the center of the VF).
> 4) Take a photograph.
> 5) Rotate your focus ring to the lens's closest focusing distance,
> then autofocus on the subject again.
> 6) Take a photograph.
>
> Now comes the annoying part: Repeat the above with a couple other
> lenses so you have at least 3 to compare results between allowing you
> to rule out the lens as the problem.
>
> When you review the images on your computer (you should have a set of
> 3 for each lens), there are 3 possible outcomes:
>
> Outcome 1: The manually focused image is in focus but the autofocused
> ones are back/front focused.
> Outcome 2: The manually focused image is back/front focused but the
> autofocused ones are in focus.
> Outcome 3: All are back/front focused, although the manual ones could
> be front and the AF one back, or viceversa.
>
> Ideally you would want Outcome 4: All photos are in focus.
>
> Depending on the outcome from the list above, and assuming results are
> consistent across lenses, these are your camera problems:
>
> Problem 1: The AF sensor is miscalibrated. This is what the micro
> adjust feature on the K20D and K-7 is useful for. It's an easy fix for
> a tech, and maybe you could do it yourself with the K10D debug
> program.
> Problem 2: The mirror is misaligned but a lazy tech simply adjusted
> the AF sensor to compensate for it. You need a tech to service your
> camera.
> Problem 3: The mirror is misaligned and the AF sensor is not
> calibrated to compensate for the offset mirror. You need a tech to
> service your camera.
>
> Hope this helped.
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
>  --M.
> --
>
>     \/\/o/\/\ --> http://WorldOfMiserere.com
>
>     http://EnticingTheLight.com
>     A Quest for Photographic Enlightenment
>
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-- 
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