The simplest answer is to either mount lights in the overhead or
bounce lights from the floor into the ceiling.  Bouncing will give you
the most even light by making the entire ceiling your light source
with the benefit of not needing worry about blinding someone right
next to the flashes to illuminate someone 40 feet away.


On Mon, Dec 6, 2010 at 6:32 AM, Larry Colen <[email protected]> wrote:
> I just got home from the dance event I was photographing this weekend.  It 
> was an awful lot like work, except for the bit about the paycheck.
>
> One of my challenges photographing the dance competitions was the aspect 
> ratio of the room. Unfortunately it wasn't at the venue with the wonderfully 
> handy mezzanine. The lights were about 10' high, and I'll guess that the room 
> was about 40' wide.   Combining the inverse square law and the pythagorean 
> theorem that means that light falls off at the ratio of
> 1/(height^2 + distance^2)
>
> If we take the intensity at the base of the lamps as 1, this gives us roughly:
>
> 00' =  1
> 10' =  1/2   1 stop
> 14 ' = 1/3
> 17'  = 1/4   2 stop
> 20'  = 1/5
> 27' = 1/8    3 stop
> 30' = 1/9
> 40' = 1/17  4 stop
>
> My first thought was that I needed a graduated neutral density filter for my 
> strobe to even out the light across the room, so that I wasn't running up 
> against blowing out objects in the foreground, while objects in the distance 
> faded to black. But, that would waste a lot of photons. What I really want is 
> a graduated fresnel lens that would redirect light that would otherwise 
> overexpose near objects, onto otherwise underexposed objects in the distance.
>
> It's my hope and guess that inferior quality of the optics would blur the 
> beam enough that there wouldn't be a bunch of sharply defined bands of light 
> and dark.
>
> Does this device already exist?  If so, where could I get one?
>
> --
> Larry Colen [email protected] sent from i4est
>
>
>
>
>
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-- 
David Parsons Photography
http://www.davidparsonsphoto.com

Aloha Photographer Photoblog
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