I have 5500 K fluorescent ceiling lights in my studio/office. I usually calibrate with them on, then work with them on. This makes it consistent, day or night. However, I have at times calibrated with all the lights off. That works fine as well, although I have to turn on the overhead lights to inspect the print. Consistency is the goal here. Paul On Feb 5, 2011, at 5:12 PM, Christine Nielsen wrote:
> ...If I may butt in with a related question... what about room > lighting? I'm trying to get my own system color-managed, but I've > seen conflicting answers... for calibrating the monitor, should my > room be illuminated "to a reasonable reading level", or "as dark as > possible as long as you can still operate the controls on your > monitor" (http://www.robertstech.com/blog/?p=64!) ..? > > Then, once we're all calibrated & editing is underway, how should the > room be lit? The same way as for calibrating? I'm guessing that the > main goal would be consistency in the ambient light... and that it be > consistently daylight-balanced? What about daytime vs nighttime > editing...? > > Thanks... > :) > -c > > On Fri, Feb 4, 2011 at 12:04 PM, Godfrey DiGiorgi <[email protected]> wrote: >> On Fri, Feb 4, 2011 at 8:01 AM, David J Brooks <[email protected]> wrote: >>> I finally got around to hooking up my Epson 2400. I needed to clean >>> the heads so all are fine now. >>> >>> I do not have my iMac calibrated but i wanted to see how it would >>> print out and match the screen. >>> >>> Test print is coming out darker than the screen by a fair amount using >>> LR 3 to adjust and print. If i lower the brightness of the screen by >>> 5-6 clicks i get on screen what the print looks like. >>> >>> Is this a classic case of "get the dam monitor calibrated" or maybe a >>> print setting. ?? I have checked those several times and cannot see >>> any change it what i had been doing on the P C. No colour adjustment >>> set, proper paper specs set etc. >> >> Yes, it's a "get the darn monitor calibrated" moment. ;-) >> >> 1- Set room illumination to a reasonable reading level. >> 2- Calibrate and profile the display. * >> 3- check the adjustments you've made on screen using the "Lights Out" >> mode with a *white* fill. Once it looks right, you're ready to print. >> >> * Note that in some circumstances and with some displays, it's hard to >> get the brightness down to the right level. Particularly with today's >> very bright, very contrasty LCD displays. If you do all this and the >> prints are still a little dark, raise the room illumination so that >> your eye when adjusting the images on screen sees them a little >> darker. >> >> My display calibration targets using the Eye One Display 2 colorimeter >> and its software application are 120 luminance, 1.8 gamma and 5500K >> white point. I find this works beautifully in my normal room >> illumination with color managed output to the R2400. You can choose >> other targets if you prefer, what's important is that you choose your >> targets, calibrate and then have a working reference for your eyes >> that does the right thing. >> -- >> Godfrey >> godfreydigiorgi.posterous.com >> >> -- >> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List >> [email protected] >> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net >> to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and >> follow the directions. >> > > -- > PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List > [email protected] > http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net > to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow > the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List [email protected] http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
