Rob Studdert wrote: > I hate to burst your bubble.... POP!! POP-POP-POP!! POP.... ;-)
> I really think that you should have used a foam which didn't fill the > recess ie the 1mm stuff. I use the Micro-tools foam to and I have > found that it's pretty dense and doesn't deform as readily as some > of the original foams (which often seem softer even when still in > good condition). Hi Rob, Thanks for the information on that. I was wondering about choice of thickness before I cut any material for the door channels. The kit I got apparently has the "imported" foam, which Curt Fargo states is not as dense as the "domestic" foam. Not sure how the stuff I have compares with the original foam, or with the material you've used. (I know the seals in my 6x7 were ready for replacement, since they were leaving black gooey residue on anything that touched them -- doors, fingers, etc. Yuck!) I figured that once the 2mm stuff compressed after several cycles of door opening and closing, it would get crunched down a bit, so I thought I'd be better off with 2mm rather than 1mm. Also, the old seals that I could actually measure -- on flat surfaces on the sides of the body, and on the inside surface of the door itself -- appeared to be 2mm. I don't think it will be too bad of a job if I end up pulling out the 2mm stuff and replacing with 1mm. Worst part of it was getting the material to adhere to the ~bottom~, rather than the sides, of the recessed areas. I finally got it after some practice. However, Curt mentions in his instructions a simple trick you can use to get thin strips of foam into these recesses. Cut the proper thickness of foam, then adhere it to a black sheet of writing paper -- the kind the young kids like to write on with those brightly colored gel pens. You then cut the paper strip (with foam strip attached) down to proper width, then insert into the recessed channel. If you've already applied a bead of Plio-bond or other suitable adhesive into the bottom of the channel, the paper-mounted foam strip should stick right where you want it. > I suppose that before you make any rash decisions you should check > it for light leaks in its current condition? Hear, hear! ;-) I think I'm actually light-tight already, but as you sugget, the real test will be running some film through the camera. My concern was more with the present clearance between pressure plate and focal plane, but I think I've figured a way to measure that pretty easily. Again, thanks for the helpful reply! Cheers, Bill Peifer Rochester, NY - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
