I have a Madell 850 which I think is similar to the Hakko. They are running a moving sale on them right now: http://www.madelltech.com/Movingsale.html
They have some low cost ovens too. Related to this has anyone tried one of the toaster ovens? :P I experimented with some prototype stencils on a 208 pin QFP, but ended up with solder balls between the pads and shorts under the part between the pins. My technique now is to tack the part down on the pads, making sure it is aligned. Then to run a thin bead of solder paste (OK dispensing gun and one of the green size nozzles) just in front of the row of pins I want to solder. Then run the hot air gun slowly down the row of pins and reflow the solder letting the hot air station push the solder paste towards the pins. Then solder wick up any excess solder. Touch up any pins that didn't pick up enough solder. Thursday, March 22, 2007, 9:38:48 PM, you wrote: > somebody GAVE me a Hakko 850 > it is obsolete, but there is a replacement model > they run about $750 USD (i think) > but here is the amazing part, the carton was full of nozzles and those > puppies range from $80 to more usually $280 EACH ! > the lot was worth maybe 3000 > a new heater assy and i was off an running, it works really well > although you do need a third arm or a friend nearby sometimes (they make > a pole thing to hold the handpiece, but so far i have resisted) > i can pull off small or large QFPs and SOICs in about 45 secs, > very easy after some practice > never tried a BGA > the air and temperature settings are very important and vary quite a bit > with the package, use as little air as possible to avoid splattering > surrounding caps about > there is a very small general purpose bent nozzle, wave it about and it > will pull off most stuff, but the air is so focused it is effectively > hotter and i burned one board badly before i knew > get some junk boards to play with > i suggest not to use flux but some may argue with me > the main trick is to flip the chip with a little wire on a handle at > just the right time, hopefully it won't fall back on the lands and > stick, which is why you need the minimum temperature > on ebay i saw these but upon closer examination they were "QUAKO" 850's > same font and color and panel arrangement priced very low, i assume they > are junk but i don't know > no shop air is needed and when you turn it off it keeps running for a > bit which confused me until i understood it was cooling and then shuts down > the Hakko brand nozzles are way overpriced, it seems that everyone uses > the same barrel diameter (which they don't describe) i took a chance on > some Weller ones and they were a fraction of the cost and worked fine > personally i would stay away from PACE > NEXT MOST important thing > if you don't have one a must have tool is a MANTIS by vision engineering > once you see through one of these everything becomes much easier and better > they have a new mini benchtop portable one for about $1700 which is > pretty cheap and worth every penny (i have not tried this new one i > assume it is as good as the larger less portable one that i have) > and here is the good news: > no electronics! pure optics, true stereo vision, very comfortable for > long working sessions with your back straight, good depth of field and > plenty of working room for tools > i recommend 4X and 8X lenses > if with the hot air tool you intend to place rather than remove, i think > you are better off not doing that and just hand solder using the Mantis, > less trouble and no solder balls > use plenty of flux and it is surprisingly easy > the exception of course would be QFNs or BGAs or something like that > but with those i don't know how you would know it really reflowed properly > one other tip is that after something like a QFP is removed and assuming > the lands look nice and not smeared take the time to go around and > carefully remove all the solder with wick and plenty of flux (be gentle) > to flatten the lands then clean the area (spay, swab, spray) then blow dry > this extra step (often needed anyway due to solder spreading) makes > placing the part much much easier as it doesn't slip off the little hills > ds > Brad Velander wrote: >> Guys & gals, >> Has any body got any good recommendations for Hot Air rework stations? >> We are interested but there is a lack of knowledge regarding which should be >> good or which might not cut it. So any suggestions from your experiences >> would be welcomed. Hopefully they are not the $70K US variety. >> >> Thanks. >> >> Sincerely, >> Brad Velander >> Senior PCB Designer >> Northern Airborne Technology >> #14 - 1925 Kirschner Road, >> Kelowna, BC, V1Y 4N7. >> tel (250) 763-2232 ext. 225 >> fax (250) 762-3374 >> >> >> >> ____________________________________________________________ >> You are subscribed to the PEDA discussion forum >> >> To Post messages: >> mailto:[email protected] >> >> Unsubscribe and Other Options: >> http://techservinc.com/mailman/listinfo/peda_techservinc.com >> >> Browse or Search Old Archives (2001-2004): >> http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >> >> Browse or Search Current Archives (2004-Current): >> http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >> >> > > ____________________________________________________________ > You are subscribed to the PEDA discussion forum > To Post messages: > mailto:[email protected] > Unsubscribe and Other Options: > http://techservinc.com/mailman/listinfo/peda_techservinc.com > Browse or Search Old Archives (2001-2004): > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > Browse or Search Current Archives (2004-Current): > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] ____________________________________________________________ You are subscribed to the PEDA discussion forum To Post messages: mailto:[email protected] Unsubscribe and Other Options: http://techservinc.com/mailman/listinfo/peda_techservinc.com Browse or Search Old Archives (2001-2004): http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] Browse or Search Current Archives (2004-Current): http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
