So at least is my understanding from what I’m told by the news 
media and learn from the labels at the supermarket, which isn’t 
much because the message wrapped in cellophane holds with the 
Pentagon’s policy of don’t ask, don’t tell. I rely instead on 
Aristotle, who draws the distinction between wealth as food and 
wealth as money by pointing out that the stomach, although 
earless, is open to instruction and subject to restraint.

A person can only eat so much (1,500 pounds of food per year, 
according to current estimates), but the craving for money is 
boundless -- the purse, not the belly, is the void that is never 
filled. Paul Roberts fits Aristotle’s observation to the modern 
circumstance: “Food production may follow general economic 
principles of supply and demand; it may indeed create employment, 
earn trade revenues, and generate profits, sometimes considerable 
profits; but the underlying product -- the thing we eat -- has 
never quite conformed to the rigors of the modern industrial model.”

What is profitable is not necessarily edible; food apparently 
doesn’t get along well with assembly lines, farm-chemical runoff, 
antibiotics, and petroleum additives. Its quality deteriorates, as 
do the soils from which it springs and the health of the people to 
whom it is dished out.

Roberts defines the problem as the imbalance between “what is 
demanded and what is actually supplied,” and the analogy that 
comes to mind is the story about the good King Midas, who wishes 
that everything he touches might turn to gold. Dionysus grants the 
request, and Midas discovers that he is unable to digest 24-karat 
cheese or 12-troy-ounce turbot.

Again, if I’m to believe what I read in the papers and infer from 
the taste of Taco Bell, the shift from an organic to an industrial 
food chain takes place in the second half of the twentieth 
century. The use of ammonium nitrate for fertilizer makes possible 
the production of immense quantities of hybrid corn processed into 
as many synthetic products (cranberry juice, whole-grain bread, 
toothpaste, aspirin) as a corporate marketing manager cares to 
germinate and name.

Family farms give way to factory farms drawing their energies from 
fossil fuels in place of sunlight (the metamorphosis of two pounds 
of corn into four ounces of hamburger at the rate of one gallon of 
diesel fuel per acre); the chemical wastes that flow south with 
the Mississippi River from Iowa’s cornfields form a dead zone in 
the Gulf of Mexico equal in size to the state of New Jersey. The 
environmental damage is the cost of doing business, which is so 
abundantly successful that it allows for the presence of maybe as 
many as two billion people everywhere in the world who might not 
otherwise have been fed.

The changes move into position within the frame of my own 
lifetime, but I didn’t take much notice of their coming or going. 
In the vicinity of my childhood I have no recollection of such a 
thing as a supermarket; the greengrocer sold the fruit and the 
vegetables, the butcher supplied the pot roast and sometimes the 
steak. As a reporter for a San Francisco newspaper in the 1950s, I 
was often in the San Joaquin Valley to admire the apricots or 
praise the walnuts, but I don’t remember meeting any farmers who 
believed themselves resident in paradise.

full: 
http://www.tomdispatch.com/post/175403/tomgram%3A_lewis_lapham%2C_eating_money/
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