Hi Richard, What is the model number and serial number of your Victrola cabinet? I have done a million repairs and something about this sort of "exploding cabinet" reminds me of what I see with a lot of non Victor machines (dare I mention BRUNSWICK) and many of the later Victor machines (post 1920-ish) like the VV-80, VV-90, VV-100, etc.
Ron already mentioned [inferred] that the old glue is hide glue. I'd have to agree that the urethane-based variety would be preferred over the original types of hide glue for repair work. The old hide glue (and you can get it) works best when it is heated which makes it pour and spread easier to develop a uniform film. I wouldn't bother with it though. Maybe someone else could better say why it should be used, but I see no reason. Try something like Titebond liquid hide glue. FRAME REPAIR Take care of reseating and securing all of the cabinet joints before you bother with the veneer. If it is possible to carefully tap the frame sections farther apart (you don't and shouldn't knock them all the way apart) try to do it so that can get as much of the tenon surfaces exposed as you can. I would make sure that the joints will FULLY seat BEFORE you apply any glue. Measure twice - glue once. You could use the hide glue on the joints as well. I personally like to use the water-based wood glues on joints and have fantastic success as long as the pieces properly fit. You will want to have a pretty good assortment of furniture clamps. You might be able to use strap clamps but my experience is that I can better control pressure with a series of many furniture clamps spaced as I need them. Just make sure you protect the wood so you don't bite into it. VENEER REPAIR If you primarily have only edge lifting of the layers you might very well be able to inject the edges. My opinion is that you should drop by a place like Tractor Supply Company and get some hypodermic syringes and needles. They are fairly cheap - probably a couple of bucks for a large pack of syringes and maybe 80 or 90 cents for a pack of 5 needles. Any place that supplies animal feed and livestock medications should carry them. (Living in the boonies of Gettysburg, PA makes it easy to find such places.) Get the largest diameter needles they have because the glue is very viscous and develops quite a bit of hydraulic pressure as you push the plunger. They are not worth keeping after you use them because urethane is incredibly tacky (and strong once it dries). Before you start to glue I would do the same thing Ron suggested about determining your clamping setup before you start. Sort of go through a dry run to make sure it works. The last thing you want is to have the glue applied and then realize you need to run to the store for more goodies. In addition to planning your clamping I would recommend that you use dental picks and an air gun to blow any dirt or dust out of the crevices before you start. The smallest of grains of dirt can not only make the final result appear to have a pucker, but unless the veneer is 100% flat the problem that you are trying to fix will try all on its own to come back. Work in a clean place. I'd work the layers ONE AT A TIME. That is, clean, dry fit, glue, and then clamp the layer closest to the cabinet and let it dry. Remove the clamps and see what you have. If it looks good, then press the finish layer down and ensure that it lays flat. If you need to, you can always use something like a manicurist's finger nail file or emery board to work off any small spots. Then glue and clamp the outer layer. If the veneer seems like it would be VERY easy to pull off, then that is exactly what I would do. But you and a few others already know that I can get just a little(?) carried away by doing way too much on low dollar machines. Still, any job worth doing is certainly worth doing right. If you do wind up pulling whole sections off, you might be able to clean the wood by lightly sanding the glue side before you apply the glue. Just make sure you wipe the dust clean with a damp (not wet) cloth and let it dry before you glue and clamp it. Have some turpentine available and make sure you remove any of the hide glue or wood glue that seeps. The wood glue is pretty easy to clean off if you should forget and let it dry. Put the urethane in the hide glue is nearly impossible to remove, and that of course, is what makes it so good for veneer. I think the urethane glue has a structural adhesion rating of like 3000 PSI or higher, and THAT, is what I would call permanent. Did you get the foot for your table top XI? Email me out of the group if you want.... Walt -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Richard Rubin Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 11:10 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [Phono-L] Repairing water-damaged cabinets? Does anyone out there have any advice on repairing a Victrola cabinet that has suffered water damage at some point in the past? In this case, most of the joints are separating and much of the veneer is peeling off, though it is still present. Unfortunately, it's not going to be a simple re-glue job, either, because there are actually two layers of veneer on top of the hardwood. Any tips, suggestions, etc.? Any thoughts on where I might read up on this? Feel free to write me directly at [email protected]. Thanks! _______________________________________________ Phono-L mailing list [email protected] Phono-L Archive http://www.oldcrank.org/pipermail/phono-l/
