A few people have asked me how electrolysis is done, so I found the original
post to my MG listserv with the details.  I've added a bit to make it
clearer.
 
Mike
 
The Electrolytic Rust Removal FAQ by Ted Kinsey
 
 
Q. What is the method?
A. A technique for returning surface rust to  iron. It uses the effect
of an small low voltage electric current and a suitable electrolyte
(solution).
 
Q. What advantages does the method have over the old standbys, like
vinegar, Coke, muriatic acid, Naval Jelly,  wire brushing, sand blasting
etc. ?
A. These methods all remove material to remove the rust, including
un-rusted surfaces. With many, the metal is left with a "pickled" look or a
characteristic color and texture. The electrolytic method removes nothing:
by returning
surface rust to metallic iron, rust scale is loosened and can be easily
removed.
Un-rusted metal is not affected in any way.
 
Q. What about screws, pivots, etc that are "rusted tight"?
A. The method will frequently solve these problems, without the need for
force, which can break things.
 
Q. Is it safe?
A. The solutions used are not hazardous; the voltages and currents are
low, so there is no electrical hazard. No noxious fumes are produced. The
method
is self limiting: it is impossible to over-clean an object.
 
Q. Where did this method come from?
A. Electrolysis is a standard technique in the artifact restoration
Business. I wrote this up for the Chronicle of the Early American Industries
Association a few years back. Most of the tool collectors around here use
it:
 
Q. What do I need?
A. A plastic tub; a stainless steel or iron electrode, water and washing
Soda (NOT baking soda!!) and a car battery charger (I use a Sears 2-10-50 
amp charging model, and usually use the 10amp setting). About a tablespoon
of soda to
a gallon of water. If you have trouble locating the washing soda,
household lye will work just fine. It's a tad more nasty--always wear eye
protection
and be sure to add the lye to the water (NOT water to lye!!!) The solution
is
weak, and is not harmful, though you might want to wear gloves.  Washing
soda is usually 
available in the laundry supply (detergent) section at your local
supermarket.  I use Arm 
& Hammer brand. 
 
Q. How long does the solution last?
A. Forever, though the loosened rust will make it pretty disgusting
after a while. Evaporation and electrolysis will deplete the water from the
solution. Add water ONLY to bring the level back.
 
Q. What about the iron electrode?
A. The iron  electrode works best if it surrounds the object to be
cleaned, since the cleaning is "line of sight" to a certain extent. The iron
electrode
will be eaten away with time. Stainless steel has the advantage (some
alloys,
but not all) that it is not eaten away.
 
Q. How do I connect the battery charger?
A.THE POLARITY IS CRUCIAL!!  The iron or stainless electrode is
connected to the positive (red) terminal. You may want to either use an
electrode that 
emerges from the water, or a thick wire connecting the red terminal to the
electrode 
because if you leave the battery charger clip in the water, it will get very
cruddy 
looking very quickly.  The object being cleaned gets connected to the
negative(black). 
Submerge the object, making sure you have good contact, which can be
difficult with 
heavily rusted objects.
 
Q. How do I know if it is working?
A. Turn on the power. If your charger has a meter, be sure come current
is flowing. Again, good electrical contact may be hard to make-it is
essential. Fine bubbles will rise from the object.
 
Q.. How long do I leave it?
A. The time depends on the size of the object and of the iron electrode,
and on the amount of rust. You will have to test the object by trying to
wipe
off the rust. If it is not completely clean, try again. Typical cleaning
time
for moderately rusted objects is a few hours. With heavily rusted objects
can be left over night.
 
Q. How do I get the rust off after I remove the object?
A. Rub the object under running water. A paper towel will help. For
Heavily rusted objects, a plastic pot scrubber can be used, carefully.
Depending
on the amount of original rust, you may have to re-treat.
 
Q. My object is too big to fit. Can I clean part of it?
A. Yes. You can clean one end and then the other. Lap marks should be
minimal if the cleaning was thorough.
 
Q. After I take it out, then what?
A. The clean object will acquire surface rust very quickly, so wipe it
dry and dry further in a warm oven or with a hair dryer. You may want to
apply a
light oil or a coat of wax to prevent further rusting.
 
Q. Will the method remove pitting?
A. No. It only operates on the rust in immediate contact with unrusted
metal. What's gone is gone.
 
Q. What will it look like when I am done?
A. The surface of rusted metal is left black. Rusted pits are still
pits. Shiny unrusted metal is untouched.
 
Q. What about nickel plating, paint, japanning and the like?
A. Sound plating will not be affected. Plating under which rust has
Penetrated will usually be lifted. The solution may soften some paints. Test
with a
drop of solution in an inconspicuous place. Remove wood handles if possible
before treating.
 
Q. How can I handle objects that are awkward to clean?
A. There are lots of variants: suspending an electrode inside to clean a
cavity in an object; using a sponge soaked in the electrolyte with a backing
electrode to clean spots on large objects or things that shouldn't be
submerged
(like with lots of wood)
 
Q. How can I dispose of the solution?
A. The bath will last until it gets so disgusting that you decide it is
time for a fresh one. There is nothing especially nasty about it-it's mildly
basic-so disposal is not a concern, except you may not want all the crud in
your
drains.
 
Q. Can I use metal containers?
A. This is highly risky. Galvanized metal can introduce zinc into the
solution. If you have used lye, it will attack aluminum. You may have
problems
with electrical shorts, etc. Stick to plastic.
 
Q. How can I clean odd shaped objects?
A. Be ingenious. Plastic PVC pipe and eave troughs, wooden boxes with
poly vapor barrier.
 
 

 

 

  _____  

From: Tim [mailto:[email protected]] 
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 9:57 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Hello Mike

 

Can you explain how to use that procedure thanks 

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