thank you really appreciate the information ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mgraziano1" <[email protected]> To: "'Antique Phonograph List'" <[email protected]> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 9:23 AM Subject: [Phono-L] The Electrolysis Process
> A few people have asked me how electrolysis is done, so I found the original > post to my MG listserv with the details. I've added a bit to make it > clearer. > > Mike > > The Electrolytic Rust Removal FAQ by Ted Kinsey > > > Q. What is the method? > A. A technique for returning surface rust to iron. It uses the effect > of an small low voltage electric current and a suitable electrolyte > (solution). > > Q. What advantages does the method have over the old standbys, like > vinegar, Coke, muriatic acid, Naval Jelly, wire brushing, sand blasting > etc. ? > A. These methods all remove material to remove the rust, including > un-rusted surfaces. With many, the metal is left with a "pickled" look or a > characteristic color and texture. The electrolytic method removes nothing: > by returning > surface rust to metallic iron, rust scale is loosened and can be easily > removed. > Un-rusted metal is not affected in any way. > > Q. What about screws, pivots, etc that are "rusted tight"? > A. The method will frequently solve these problems, without the need for > force, which can break things. > > Q. Is it safe? > A. The solutions used are not hazardous; the voltages and currents are > low, so there is no electrical hazard. No noxious fumes are produced. The > method > is self limiting: it is impossible to over-clean an object. > > Q. Where did this method come from? > A. Electrolysis is a standard technique in the artifact restoration > Business. I wrote this up for the Chronicle of the Early American Industries > Association a few years back. Most of the tool collectors around here use > it: > > Q. What do I need? > A. A plastic tub; a stainless steel or iron electrode, water and washing > Soda (NOT baking soda!!) and a car battery charger (I use a Sears 2-10-50 > amp charging model, and usually use the 10amp setting). About a tablespoon > of soda to > a gallon of water. If you have trouble locating the washing soda, > household lye will work just fine. It's a tad more nasty--always wear eye > protection > and be sure to add the lye to the water (NOT water to lye!!!) The solution > is > weak, and is not harmful, though you might want to wear gloves. Washing > soda is usually > available in the laundry supply (detergent) section at your local > supermarket. I use Arm > & Hammer brand. > > Q. How long does the solution last? > A. Forever, though the loosened rust will make it pretty disgusting > after a while. Evaporation and electrolysis will deplete the water from the > solution. Add water ONLY to bring the level back. > > Q. What about the iron electrode? > A. The iron electrode works best if it surrounds the object to be > cleaned, since the cleaning is "line of sight" to a certain extent. The iron > electrode > will be eaten away with time. Stainless steel has the advantage (some > alloys, > but not all) that it is not eaten away. > > Q. How do I connect the battery charger? > A.THE POLARITY IS CRUCIAL!! The iron or stainless electrode is > connected to the positive (red) terminal. You may want to either use an > electrode that > emerges from the water, or a thick wire connecting the red terminal to the > electrode > because if you leave the battery charger clip in the water, it will get very > cruddy > looking very quickly. The object being cleaned gets connected to the > negative(black). > Submerge the object, making sure you have good contact, which can be > difficult with > heavily rusted objects. > > Q. How do I know if it is working? > A. Turn on the power. If your charger has a meter, be sure come current > is flowing. Again, good electrical contact may be hard to make-it is > essential. Fine bubbles will rise from the object. > > Q.. How long do I leave it? > A. The time depends on the size of the object and of the iron electrode, > and on the amount of rust. You will have to test the object by trying to > wipe > off the rust. If it is not completely clean, try again. Typical cleaning > time > for moderately rusted objects is a few hours. With heavily rusted objects > can be left over night. > > Q. How do I get the rust off after I remove the object? > A. Rub the object under running water. A paper towel will help. For > Heavily rusted objects, a plastic pot scrubber can be used, carefully. > Depending > on the amount of original rust, you may have to re-treat. > > Q. My object is too big to fit. Can I clean part of it? > A. Yes. You can clean one end and then the other. Lap marks should be > minimal if the cleaning was thorough. > > Q. After I take it out, then what? > A. The clean object will acquire surface rust very quickly, so wipe it > dry and dry further in a warm oven or with a hair dryer. You may want to > apply a > light oil or a coat of wax to prevent further rusting. > > Q. Will the method remove pitting? > A. No. It only operates on the rust in immediate contact with unrusted > metal. What's gone is gone. > > Q. What will it look like when I am done? > A. The surface of rusted metal is left black. Rusted pits are still > pits. Shiny unrusted metal is untouched. > > Q. What about nickel plating, paint, japanning and the like? > A. Sound plating will not be affected. Plating under which rust has > Penetrated will usually be lifted. The solution may soften some paints. Test > with a > drop of solution in an inconspicuous place. Remove wood handles if possible > before treating. > > Q. How can I handle objects that are awkward to clean? > A. There are lots of variants: suspending an electrode inside to clean a > cavity in an object; using a sponge soaked in the electrolyte with a backing > electrode to clean spots on large objects or things that shouldn't be > submerged > (like with lots of wood) > > Q. How can I dispose of the solution? > A. The bath will last until it gets so disgusting that you decide it is > time for a fresh one. There is nothing especially nasty about it-it's mildly > basic-so disposal is not a concern, except you may not want all the crud in > your > drains. > > Q. Can I use metal containers? > A. This is highly risky. Galvanized metal can introduce zinc into the > solution. If you have used lye, it will attack aluminum. You may have > problems > with electrical shorts, etc. Stick to plastic. > > Q. How can I clean odd shaped objects? > A. Be ingenious. Plastic PVC pipe and eave troughs, wooden boxes with > poly vapor barrier. > > > > > > > > _____ > > From: Tim [mailto:[email protected]] > Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 9:57 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: Hello Mike > > > > Can you explain how to use that procedure thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Phono-L mailing list > [email protected] > > Phono-L Archive > http://www.oldcrank.org/pipermail/phono-l/
