Hi Dan, When you try to wind it, do you here any "CLICKS" at a certain point? You may have to listen carefully. If the spring is broken, there will be a click or thump when you reach that point where the spring is broken. Does it "free-wind" w/o any resistance? That could be because the winding arbor catch is not picking up the hole at the beginning of the mainspring. This could be due to the spring breaking right at the hole-end of the mainspring, thus the winding shaft just spins. You may have to endeavor to take the mainspring barrel out and remove the cover and check out the situation. Let me know what you find. I use a heavy canvas sack(like a mail bag) and heavy gloves when I remove a main spring from the barrel. I put the barrel in the sack, and with pliers(the jaws have brass caps on them) grasp the arbor end of the mainspring and carefully pull it out. Trust me, at a certain point, the entire spring will come out! The canvas bag will keep the mainspring from flying around the room , taking fingers and china with it. The other end of the spring can either be held by a rivet(usually cheap machines) or a screw, (the head will be visible from the outside.) or a barrel hook. After you detach that end, clean the entire spring in Naphtha(if it's not broken) and dry it. Clean out all the old grease in the barrel too. If the spring has just enlarged at the winding arbor, you can carefully re-bend the spring so the hook on the barrel arbor catches the hole in the spring. You really should clean the spring and barrel, even if it's not broken, as the grease is probably 80+ yrs old and is not going to get any better. I usually use wheel bearing grease, just plop a tablespoon full in the empty barrel before you put the spring back in. When you wind the spring back into the barrel, I suggest using the leather gloves again! One important thing before you remove the spring, take note of it's direction, I usually draw a quick sketch on a piece of paper. It's not really to har d a job if you're careful, but it is messy!
Regards, Bill From [email protected] Wed Jun 28 10:50:36 2006 From: [email protected] ([email protected]) Date: Sun Dec 24 13:11:42 2006 Subject: [Phono-L] Rubber drive wheel question In-Reply-To: <[email protected]> References: <[email protected]> Message-ID: <[email protected]> Ken: I used a guy named Ed Crockett (sp?) down south somewhere in Louisiana or Alabama someplace like that a few years back. His email address is [email protected] He can put rubber on pretty much any idler wheel ever made. I lost his phone number but will let you know if I find it. WestTech also does idler wheel work too. Rick -----Original Message----- From: Ken & Brenda Brekke <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Sent: Sat, 24 Jun 2006 20:52:23 -0500 Subject: [Phono-L] Rubber drive wheel question Does anyone on this list know how to revitalize an old rubber drive wheel for an electric phonograph turntable. My father would really love to get his old Magnovox to play better. The turntable's speed seems to vary a little. I was able to get to the drive wheel and the surface seemed a bit hard. If I remember they should be softer to grab the turntable better. Any help would be appreciated. Ken _______________________________________________ Phono-L mailing list [email protected] Phono-L Archive http://phono-l.oldcrank.org/archive/ Support Phono-L http://www.cafepress.com/oldcrank ________________________________________________________________________ Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free.
