Hi Walt,In April 1926 Edison came out with 4 long play consoles, the 1 had a 100 horn, the 2 had a 150 horn, the 3 and 4 had the 250 horn found in the lab models. The 3C cost $250 new. In May 1927 the consolette came out. They were discontinued after August 1927 when the two Edisonic models came out. If you want me to scan and send all the info from the Frow Edison Disc book let me know.From Tim Gracyk's web site:The Edison "LP" (long-playing) disc machines do pop up once in a great while. These console or "low boy" machines were made in 1926, lasting only a year on the market. It was Edison's attempt to introduce a long-playing record system. The company wanted something new to compete against radio and also the other companies' switch to electrical recording. But the experiment failed because the records, with 400 grooves to the inch, were too fragile to stand up to daily use. Also, one had to do a lot of winding to get the 36 foot long motor springs ready to play for 20 minutes for 10-inch discs and 40 minutes for 12-inch discs! These records, which played at 80 rpm, wore out too quickly and were too faint in volume, compared to Victor or Columbia records of the day, not to mention radio. Today, Edison 10- and 12-inch "LP" records sell for around $300 each if in pristine condition . The machines today range from $1500 to $2000. Remember, the machines must come equipped with the rare long-play reproducers. The words "long play" were stamped onto each reproducer.Steve> I was hoping that someone might have a web link or other information about> the Edison 3-C. I did take a few pictures of it and can email them to anyone> who wants to see them.> > Thanks,> Walt> > p.s. Someone already asked me if the model number was 3-C or C-3. The number> is in fact 3-C.> > _______________________________________________> Phono-L mailing list> [email protected]> > Phono-L Archive> http://phono-l.oldcrank.org/archive/> > Support Phono-L> http://www.cafepress.com/oldcrank From [email protected] Wed Jul 5 22:11:25 2006 From: [email protected] (Ron L'Herault) Date: Sun Dec 24 13:11:43 2006 Subject: [Phono-L] Diamond disk rebuild In-Reply-To: <[email protected]> Message-ID: <00b201c6a0ba$a4c28310$2f01a...@ronlherault>
John, the friction spring that slides under the motor board should have a tiny bit of tension on it when the lift lever is up in the playing position, and more tension when the lever is down. To get the right playing height, loosen the two square head screws at the top and move the outer tube up or down so that the flat feed gear does not touch the feed screw mechanism when the handle is down. The feed screw should engage the flat feed "gear" by the time the handle is at the half way point of travel. The threaded part at the bottom is the adjustment for playing height. If you can't adjust it, your diaphragm may be warped. You can give the horn a bit of a downward bend to bring the reproducer closer to the record or you can put another layer of felt between record and turntable as a stop gap measure. Ron L -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Sheets Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 2:47 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [Phono-L] Diamond disk rebuild I wonder if list members with lots of DD experience could give me some information? I am restoring a Chippendale Console Diamond Disk (case needed a new base, lots of delaminated veneer, etc.) and am perplexed by the post that the horn and reproducer turn on. Specifically, I am not getting the proper distance between the bracket that holds the horn, the finger that slides along the bottom of the motorboard (and is adjustable up and down) and the stud that fits into the bottom socket that the whole thing turns on. I can adjust all of these, but don't get them to the point where the reproducer sits appropriately on the record surface. Judging from the (rather poor quality) photos in the manuals and in the Frow book, there is maybe 1" between the spring steel finger and the bracket, but I can't set this and still have the lifting lever work to move the reproducer up and down. (Is this understandable?) I can also screw the stud at the bottom in or out, to lengthen the whole po st. I have studied the directions in the DD manual but still can't get the distances correct I am afraid. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance-- John Sheets _______________________________________________ Phono-L mailing list [email protected] Phono-L Archive http://phono-l.oldcrank.org/archive/ Support Phono-L http://www.cafepress.com/oldcrank
