I recently rebuild a Model H 4 minute reproducer (new diaphragm, gaskets
and need).  This was my first attempt to do so.  On my Edison Standard,
some (but not all) 4 minute blue amberol cylinders sometimes echo.  It
seems to be certain cylinders and not others.  What would cause this
problem.  I thought rebuilding the reproducer would get rid of it.  Is
it likely a problem with the cylinders in question or the
machine/reproducer?

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of [email protected]
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 3:00 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Phono-L Digest, Vol 3, Issue 161


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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Diamond disk rebuild (John Sheets)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2006 13:51:39 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
From: John Sheets <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Diamond disk rebuild
To: Antique Phonograph List <[email protected]>
Message-ID:
        
<4725677.1152219100146.javamail.r...@elwamui-hybrid.atl.sa.earthlink.net
>
        
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Thanks much for the specific advice.  I will try this!
JS

-----Original Message-----
>From: Ron L'Herault <[email protected]>
>Sent: Jul 5, 2006 10:11 PM
>To: 'Antique Phonograph List' <[email protected]>
>Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Diamond disk rebuild
>
>John, the friction  spring that slides under the motor board should 
>have a tiny bit of tension on it when the lift lever is up in the 
>playing position, and more tension when the lever is down.  To get the 
>right playing height, loosen the two square head screws at the top and 
>move the outer tube up or down so that the flat feed gear does not 
>touch the feed screw mechanism when the handle is down.  The feed screw

>should engage the flat feed "gear" by the time the handle is at the 
>half way point of travel.  The threaded part at the bottom is the 
>adjustment for playing height.  If you can't adjust it, your diaphragm 
>may be warped.  You can give the horn a bit of a downward bend to bring

>the reproducer closer to the record or you can put another layer of 
>felt between record and turntable as a stop gap measure.
>
>Ron L
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [email protected] 
>[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Sheets
>Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 2:47 PM
>To: [email protected]
>Subject: [Phono-L] Diamond disk rebuild
>
>I wonder if list members with lots of DD experience could give me some 
>information?  I am restoring a Chippendale Console Diamond Disk (case 
>needed a new base, lots of delaminated veneer, etc.) and am perplexed 
>by the post that the horn and reproducer turn on.  Specifically, I am 
>not getting the proper distance between the bracket that holds the 
>horn, the finger that slides along the bottom of the motorboard (and is

>adjustable up and down) and the stud that fits into the bottom socket 
>that the whole thing turns on. I can adjust all of these, but don't get

>them to the point where the reproducer sits appropriately on the record

>surface. Judging from the (rather poor quality) photos in the manuals 
>and in the Frow book, there is maybe 1" between the spring steel finger

>and the bracket, but I can't set this and still have the lifting lever 
>work to move the reproducer up and down. (Is this understandable?) I 
>can also screw the stud at the bottom in or out, to lengthen the whole 
>po  st. I have studied the directions in the DD manual but still can't 
>get the distances correct I am afraid.  Any thoughts? Thanks in 
>advance-- John Sheets
>
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