Bwaahhahahaha! Hey, I have more tools than I thought.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Loran Hughes" <[email protected]> To: "Antique Phonograph List" <[email protected]> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 5:00 PM Subject: Re: [Phono-L] removing turn table & cleaning lead screw & half nut > On Jan 24, 2007, at 2:22 PM, Rich wrote: > >> Heat source > Propane torch > >> Arbor press > Old jack duct taped to 4x4 post > >> peneumatic hammer > Carpenter's hammer hanging next to air compressor > >> brass drift punches > Old screwdrivers > >> lead hammer > Same hammer (hanging next to air compressor) > >> Kroil > Crisco > >> mechanics' assistant > Wife or girl friend > > I learned everything I need to know from Mike Stitt. > ;) > Loran > > > > _______________________________________________ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > From [email protected] Wed Jan 24 15:50:57 2007 From: [email protected] (Rich) Date: Wed Jan 24 15:51:14 2007 Subject: [Phono-L] removing turn table & cleaning lead screw & half nut In-Reply-To: <[email protected]> Message-ID: <[email protected]> Well, yes. I gave up on the set of Harly hammers years ago. On Wed, 24 Jan 2007 14:34:00 -0800, [email protected] wrote: >Oh, just the common tools that ALL us hobbyists have :-) >-----Original Message----- >From: "Rich" <[email protected]> >Subj: RE: [Phono-L] removing turn table & cleaning lead screw & half nut >Date: Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:26 pm >Size: 4K >To: "Antique Phonograph List" <[email protected]> >The secret is proper jobsite preparation, proper use of the tools, and the >proper tools. If it will not >come off with a gentle tap with a nylon or brass hammer while lifting up on >the rim then total >disassembly and removal is indicated. Almost anything else runs the real risk >of damaging or ruining >an irreplaceable part(s). >Heat source >Arbor press >peneumatic hammer >brass drift punches >lead hammer >Kroil >mechanics' assistant >On Wed, 24 Jan 2007 13:53:24 -0800 (PST), john robles wrote: >>If using a lubricant on the hub, becareful that it does not make contact with >>the felt - I am sure we >have all seen turntables with nice original felt that has a 4 or 5 inch wide >oil stain from sucking up >excess lubricant from the hub area... >>Walt <[email protected]> wrote: >>Try good penetrating oil like "Liquid Wrench" or some other oil that is >>specifically intended as a solvent rather than WD-40 which is chiefly a >>lubricant. Apply a few drops in against the top of the hub where the spindle >>passes through and also from under the motor board if you can get to it. >>Once you apply the oil, let it soak in for a few minutes to penetrate and >>then carefully and lightly tap the spindle with a nylon hammer if you have >>one. If it doesn't come off after that, put a few more drops of penetrating >>oil in and let it sit overnight and then try it again. (The longer you wait >>and the more penetrating oil you apply, the better the hopes get. I have let >>some impossible turntables that were badly rusted sit for months and >>eventually they fell right off. I have had the same success with seized pot >>metal reproducers and tone arms, especially Columbia, and have avoided any >>damage whatsoever. But the trick is to wait, wait, and wait some more, >>which, admittedly, is not typically that practical.) >>If that doesn't work, use Ron's recommendation of loosening the spindle >>drive gear and then working the shaft free by pulling upward. Once free, use >>a nylon headed hammer rather than steel (or rubber). The nylon is hard and >>resilient, won't tear up like a rubber mallet, and will not damage the >>spindle. You might want to squirt some oil (any oil) on the shaft and gear >>before you try to pull it up because the old Vaseline, dust, hair and >>whatever else worked its way around the shaft will probably make it gummy >>and difficult to just slide up through the casting. >>If you use the two-person technique that Poppa Loarn mentioned just be >>careful that you don't wind up bending the turntable (very easy to do) or >>splitting the motor board seams...I speak from experience long ago >>. Whatever you do, take good care to avoid flexing and bending the >>turntable or exerting force against the motor board. Few things, except >>perhaps being 15 miles out in the Atlantic on a 20-foot boat with 18 foot >>swells, is as unpleasant to me as watching a turntable spin with a >>pronounced wobble - and balancing them once they are distorted can be >>tricky. >>The hammering of any shaft end (spindles, gears, mandrel shafts, leadscrews, >>etc.) with a regular old steel hammer invites not only the potential for >>mushrooming the end (I'm sure we have all done this, or almost, at least >>once), but also the possibility of bending or breaking it. I actually had a >>customer send me a turntable with the lower end of the shaft still seized >>into place but he had beaten the end and caused the spindle tip to fracture >>off. Until I saw that I didn't believe it was possible, but people invent >>all sorts of new ways to break stuff I suppose. >>On The Subject of Penetrating Oils: >>Penetrating oils are not really the same as WD-40, although WD-40 like most >>any oil can often work, and WD-40 is better than most. But WD-40 is higher >>in viscosity than actual penetrating oil. Penetrating oils are formulated >>specifically with high concentrations of mineral spirits to make the >>viscosity extremely low but most importantly to facilitate the "wicking" of >>trace amounts of lubricants into nooks and crannies that WD-40 can only >>dream about getting into - It's simple physics. The longer you wait, the >>more oil is able to migrate into the area you want to loosen. >>Walt Sommers >>Gettysburg Antique Phonographs >>717-334-0862 >>-----Original Message----- >>From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On >>Behalf Of Ron L >>Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 12:41 PM >--- message truncated --- >_______________________________________________ >Phono-L mailing list >http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
