In a message dated 6/24/2007 10:37:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [email protected] writes:
What kind of vintage car you got? Alright, alright, then. First, and foremost there's "Molly Hupp," a 1918 Model R Hupmobile tourer, and now there's "Tess," a 1917 Ford "Turtleback" Roadster. Perky little bug you hafta crank start. I like 'em a bit older vintage than most of ye, I s'poze. To keep it more on topic, Molly has her choice of two phonographs, depending on the event. She has the widest running boards of any old car I've ever seen. They easily support either the early Victrola 50 -- oak case in excellent shape -- or a little Victor II "Humpback" (1907) for special occasions. Nothing beats a horn for ambiance. Tess? Not alada room in a "T". Maybe the Edison Standard would go with it. Tess has an actual "trunk" that could pack a few cylinders. She's new to me still and hasn't had the occasion yet for a tour or a picnic. The Edison seems to be right for it, though. A side story regarding the Victrola 50 and the Hupmobile. I hesitated buying this phono for Molly because it came out in 1921 and the Hupp was made in 1918. I ran that by Jerry Blais at an OTAPS meeting a few years ago. "Nonsense," he said. "After you made the last payment on the Hupmobile you went out and bought a new Victrola." Dude! That kicked me off the fence. Most of you will know the early VV-50 had no provision for needles or records, as the later version did. For several years I packed needles in a little case but lately I've taken to using a "Tungstone" needle in the Victrola and am currious to know how long it may be expected to last. So far it's played both sides of maybe 10 to 15 records. My two car's worth, ; ) Edward, in Zigzag ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. From [email protected] Mon Jun 25 02:44:07 2007 From: [email protected] ([email protected]) Date: Mon Jun 25 02:45:12 2007 Subject: [Phono-L] OT-vintage car Message-ID: <[email protected]> hi all cars are as bad as phonograhs only have a 1971 vw convertible, 56 plymouth plaza (26 k miles on it) and a 1950 dodge stake truck the dodge is for sale at this point too little time lol zono ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. From [email protected] Mon Jun 25 02:59:53 2007 From: [email protected] ([email protected]) Date: Mon Jun 25 03:01:55 2007 Subject: [Phono-L] Re: west point clarification IS APPRECIATED... Message-ID: <[email protected]> Greetings Howard: It is very kind of you to send out this clarification on the West Point Horn. There is much that went into the first book that I had no chance to correct. I was sent a galley proof and quickly made many corrections to the text and photographs, most of which I took and printed in my dark room. I called George Frow only a day after receiving the proof to tell him I was sending off a list of corrections. At that point I was told the book had gone to press. I only received profits from the books I personally sold and never recouped my investment in the project. When the writing of the Companion was under way I had lost interest and did not wish to contribute even though I had completed my collection of all the Edison domestic cylinder machines. George's Companion is a remarkable and wonderful expansion work which in hindsight I wish I had sent him photographs of all the machines he did not have and more information to add to the text. One of the sad parts was that I wished to do a lot of research at the Edison archives but that door was closed when that crook Phil Peterson raided the archive of so many historic and valuable documents. I did have my suspicions that the West Point Horn was from a much later period but went with what was given in the first book until I could disprove it. Can you tell me where you found reference to the horn in a later document that shows its true usage? I would find that fascinating. I bought that horn from Bill Endlein! I still have it somewhere in storage. I am also very glad to NOT have paid $4,650 for it. I lost interest in phonographs for many years and only in the last couple of years have become a follower of eBay Edison sales. You are so correct about how people bid wildly without knowing much about on which they are bidding. When I see phonographic mutts like a Red Banner Home case on a later Model A advertised as all original though the serial number clearly shows it should be a black banner late A, I wince! Edison machines just seem to lend themselves to kitchen table conglomerations of parts. That is why it is always a good idea to ask the serial number and I wish more sellers would automatically include it in the description. Kindest Regards and may all your finds be rare ones, Al ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. From [email protected] Mon Jun 25 06:08:35 2007 From: [email protected] (Ron L) Date: Mon Jun 25 06:10:00 2007 Subject: [Phono-L] tape residue In-Reply-To: <[email protected]> Message-ID: <[email protected]> I'd still go with Goo Gone. It won't react. And I doubt a phono piece is pewter. It is probably Aluminum or pot metal. Ron L -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Richard Rubin Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 12:32 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [Phono-L] tape residue I believe the finish is actually hammered pewter. Would lacquer thinner or Goo-Gone be safe on that? >From: Andrew Baron <[email protected]> >Reply-To: Antique Phonograph List <[email protected]> >To: Antique Phonograph List <[email protected]> >Subject: Re: [Phono-L] tape residue >Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 20:44:52 -0600 > >Solvent. > >If it's a nickel-plated arm (more durable than the gold plating), Lacquer >thinner should harmlessly cut right through that stubborn residut, melt it >and leave the metal clean and unharmed, with two or three successive >applications. I'd make two recommendations before embarking on this: >Remove the arm from the machine (by removing the screws around the flange >of the black base of the arm, where it meets the wood); and keep the >thinner away from the painted support, keep it from dripping on it too. > >Oh yes - and do this outside or with plenty of ventilation and let it air >dry thoroughly, both inside and out, before reinstalling on the machine. > >Andy > >On Jun 24, 2007, at 7:08 PM, Richard Rubin wrote: > >>Greetings, everyone. I just picked up a nice old Victrola, in which >>someone had duct taped the tone arm down at some point to keep it (I >>assume) from swinging around. They left the tape on for many years, and >>though it has since been removed, there is a wide band of tape residue on >>the arm. Naturally, I'm looking to remove this residue while preserving >>the arm's original finish. What is the best and/or easiest way of doing >>so? Thanks in adance for your ideas. >> >>--RR >> >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Phono-L mailing list >>http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > >_______________________________________________ >Phono-L mailing list >http://phono-l.oldcrank.org _______________________________________________ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
