Steve,
Sewing machine oil is the bad one.  Clock oil has R&O inhibitors in it 
and starts as a highly refined base stock.  It is OK and lasts for a 
very long time.  It is a bit thin however and probably only should be 
used on governors.

Steven Medved wrote:
> Hello Rich,
>  
> I really appreciate this, I thought clock oil did not turn to varnish, but 
> now I know.  I am happy to learn about clock oil, I believe I have some.  It 
> is yellow and in an oiler like on the clock site.  I always appreciate 
> learning from you.
>  
> Steve
> 
> 
> 
>> Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 16:05:50 -0500> From: rich-mail at octoxol.com> To: 
>> phono-l at oldcrank.org> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] AB's and gear oiling> > Most 
>> sewing machine oil is a pure very light weight mineral oil and > usually is 
>> devoid of any R&O additive. It tends to oxidize over time to > a carbon 
>> based varnish. R&O is Rust and Oxidation, rust for the metal > that is lubed 
>> and oxidation for the lubricant.> > Clock oil is a much higher refined 
>> product and does contain additives. > If it is synthetic clock oil it will 
>> last almost forever and does not > creep. Spring oil is another clock item 
>> that the phono folks should > pick up on. Springs in open barrels probably 
>> should be greased, use a > synthetic grease or you will be doing the job 
>> again in a couple of years.> > Steven Medved wrote:> > What is clock oil and 
>> how does it differ from sewing machine oil?> > > > Steve> > > > > > > >> 
>> Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 14:35:28 -0500> From: rich-mail at octoxol.com> To: 
>> phono-l at oldcrank.org> Su
bj
>  ect: Re: [Phono-L] AB's and gear oiling> > Dissimilar metals are self 
> lubricating - no lube required. Similar > metals require a very light coating 
> of very pure oil, preferably synthetic.> > > 
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