Steve, The sharp edged springs are laser cut. The rounded edge is sheared. The shears are going out of style.
The Amsoil synthetic grease will outlast the graphite Vaseline mix. The Vaseline will oxidize to a hard varnish and bind up the graphite and then the spring will bind up. If you want the best spring lube use NYE 362HB. It is 100% PAO synthetic gel. You will find that all of the tube greases are a synthetic oil in a standard soap base or a petroleum oil in a synthetic base. The gel lubricants are a bit pricey still for automotive use. Might be some in your industry though. I have written about the use of these petroleum based lubricants in the past. Rich Steven Medved wrote: > Shane, > If there's a youtube video that shows how to replace the mainspring that'd > help me out. > -- Thatcher > > I > would like to add two important things to the video. First, when you are > doing > spring work make a diagram of the barrel and note which way the spring > goes back in. This prevents problems later, especially if you soak the > spring in mineral spirits and do not re install in for a few days. > When I first started I found out the hard way the spring only goes in > one way. > > > > Secondly, if a person is not mechanically inclined they should not try > it. I am an aircraft mechanic so I enjoy working with my hands. Over > the years I have asked people if they like working on their cars, > mostly the ones who do not are not good mechanics because they are not > interested in mechanics. It is people's interest that mostly decides what > skills they have. > > > > I have worked with many springs, the Triumph is the most challenging > because of the wide spring and triple barrel. With the larger barrels > I keep my thumbs on both sides to let the spring come out slowly. The > hardest spring I ever installed was on my Edison Standard, it was of a > different alloy and was much stronger than any spring I have ever > done. The worse spring I ever did was one that the maker did not shave > the excess material from the holes, made the holes too small, and I > spent over an hour working on it and reworking it, the inner hole was hideous > to rework. > > > > I have found Sitko's springs to be top quality, better than the > originals and easy to work with. I use 10 to 1 mixture of Vaseline and > graphite, powdered for Victor, flake for Edison. I want to try > synthetic on the next one I do. My standard that was greased in 1982 > still runs smoothly so I wonder how long the synthetic would last. I avoid > the springs that have the ground edges, Sitko's are rounded. > > > > Following safety precautions is > important, my prescription eyeglasses are made of polycarbonate, which > protected my eyes so I suggest wearing goggles. I only had one incident, > which was my fault. > > I prefer using special > high strength rubber gloves as it make clean up easier. I liked the > idea of an old blanket, I normally use cardboard and that allows the > barrel to move about. > > I am fortunate to have a parts cleaner at work which makes removing the old > grease easy. > > Best wishes, > > Steve > _______________________________________________ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > > From [email protected] Mon Mar 2 14:15:00 2009 From: [email protected] (Rich) Date: Mon Mar 2 14:15:47 2009 Subject: [Phono-L] Spring R&R In-Reply-To: <[email protected]> References: <[email protected]> <[email protected]> <[email protected]> Message-ID: <[email protected]> Steve, The sharp edged springs are laser cut. The rounded edge is sheared. The shears are going out of style. The Amsoil synthetic grease will outlast the graphite Vaseline mix. The Vaseline will oxidize to a hard varnish and bind up the graphite and then the spring will bind up. If you want the best spring lube use NYE 362HB. It is 100% PAO synthetic gel. You will find that all of the tube greases are a synthetic oil in a standard soap base or a petroleum oil in a synthetic base. The gel lubricants are a bit pricey still for automotive use. Might be some in your industry though. I have written about the use of these petroleum based lubricants in the past. Rich Steven Medved wrote: > Shane, > If there's a youtube video that shows how to replace the mainspring that'd > help me out. > -- Thatcher > > I > would like to add two important things to the video. First, when you are > doing > spring work make a diagram of the barrel and note which way the spring > goes back in. This prevents problems later, especially if you soak the > spring in mineral spirits and do not re install in for a few days. > When I first started I found out the hard way the spring only goes in > one way. > > > > Secondly, if a person is not mechanically inclined they should not try > it. I am an aircraft mechanic so I enjoy working with my hands. Over > the years I have asked people if they like working on their cars, > mostly the ones who do not are not good mechanics because they are not > interested in mechanics. It is people's interest that mostly decides what > skills they have. > > > > I have worked with many springs, the Triumph is the most challenging > because of the wide spring and triple barrel. With the larger barrels > I keep my thumbs on both sides to let the spring come out slowly. The > hardest spring I ever installed was on my Edison Standard, it was of a > different alloy and was much stronger than any spring I have ever > done. The worse spring I ever did was one that the maker did not shave > the excess material from the holes, made the holes too small, and I > spent over an hour working on it and reworking it, the inner hole was hideous > to rework. > > > > I have found Sitko's springs to be top quality, better than the > originals and easy to work with. I use 10 to 1 mixture of Vaseline and > graphite, powdered for Victor, flake for Edison. I want to try > synthetic on the next one I do. My standard that was greased in 1982 > still runs smoothly so I wonder how long the synthetic would last. I avoid > the springs that have the ground edges, Sitko's are rounded. > > > > Following safety precautions is > important, my prescription eyeglasses are made of polycarbonate, which > protected my eyes so I suggest wearing goggles. I only had one incident, > which was my fault. > > I prefer using special > high strength rubber gloves as it make clean up easier. I liked the > idea of an old blanket, I normally use cardboard and that allows the > barrel to move about. > > I am fortunate to have a parts cleaner at work which makes removing the old > grease easy. > > Best wishes, > > Steve > _______________________________________________ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > > From [email protected] Mon Mar 2 14:16:27 2009 From: [email protected] (Albert) Date: Mon Mar 2 14:17:07 2009 Subject: [Phono-L] Opera like Phonograph? References: <[email protected]> <[email protected]> <[email protected]><[email protected]><[email protected]> <[email protected]> Message-ID: <000401c99b84$8897d510$7501a...@albert> I am curious about the Almost Opera that just appeared on Ebay. Will an Amberola 1-a mech. fit that well in an opera case? of course the serial plate is gone, but the bedplate color is opera correct, my 1-A is much darker. Also I have never seen a model M reproducer that has been shaved like a trowel, any comments? AL Menashe
