Peter,
On mine years ago I started with a copper base. It hopefully is still there
if not plate it. Use gun bluing and I think I used antique brown. Turn it
brown. Use a dremel tool and its buffing wheel and buff off the gun bluing
for effect. I would practice on scrap or under the turntable. You can do it
with out art skills.
Mike

On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 3:05 PM, Peter Fraser <[email protected]> wrote:

> Is there any description of the technique online, or can you please give us
> a brief outline?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> -- Peter
> [email protected]
>
> On Jan 7, 2011, at 3:03 PM, Mike Stitt <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > It is not a hard finish to replicate and can be fun to do.
> > Mike
> >
> > On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 3:00 PM, John Maeder <[email protected]>
> wrote:
> >
> >> Steve Farmer can replicate that finish.
> >>
> >>> From: [email protected]
> >>> To: [email protected]
> >>> Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 16:42:55 -0600
> >>> Subject: [Phono-L] Victor R
> >>>
> >>> Jeff,
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> The orange based stripper works well.  Just try it in a small area
> under
> >> the
> >>> turntable first.  It's good to hear that there are still some good
> finds
> >> out
> >>> there.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> The tone arm on my Victor Rigid arm R has been buffed by a previous
> owner
> >>> that took off most of the nice oxidized finish.  The finish behind the
> >> swing
> >>> arm and on the reproducer is fine.  My question for everyone on Phono-L
> >> is:
> >>> Is it hard to redo the oxidized finish on a part like this?  Or, is
> there
> >>> someone that can be recommended to do this type of work?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>>
> >>> Ken B.
> >>>
> >>> Wisconsin
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> Phono-L mailing list
> >>> http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Phono-L mailing list
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> >>
> > _______________________________________________
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